Monday, 28 July 2014

Emery Dress: A TNT Pattern?

I don't want to speak too soon, but I think the Emery Dress pattern, may be a TNT (tried n' true) pattern for me. This is my third version and while none of the three (see dress 1 and 2) are absolutely perfect they are pretty damn good, imo. The style is absolutely me and the fit is pretty darn lovely.

Navy Emery Dress

This version began when I found some divine navy Japanese cotton at The Cloth Shop. It feels like Liberty (but half the price) and is wonderfully light. The print looks to be a navy and brown abstract rose pattern. I'm a sucker for blue! I bought the fabric and decided on the Emery pattern immediately.

Navy Emery Dress
 
For this Emery I cut my usual size (6, grading out to an 8 from the waist down). I wanted this dress to be unlined and sleeveless. The cotton is so wonderful against your skin and the fabric breathes really well so I thought it would be a great summer dress. In the meantime,  long sleeves, cardigans and fleece tights are my friend.  I finished the neckline and armholes with Navy bias binding.

Navy Emery Dress

The Emery Pattern was not designed to be a sleeveless dress so I altered the pattern by taking 1cm off the shoulders grading to nothing around the arm hole curve on the back and front piece. I didn't do this for my Full O'Heart version and it worked out fine so I thinks it's just a matter of preference.

Navy Emery Dress
 
One fitting issue I had  in my previous two dresses was some back neckline gaping. I made a couple of changes in this version to combat that: 1) I took 1cm off the top of the centre back bodice grading it to nothing to just before the tip of the back darts. I then inserted the zipper normally - thus having 2cm less fabric at the centre back neckline. 2) I sewed the shoulder seams at 7/8" (an extra 1/4").  This seems to have taken most of the gaping out and the slightly raised neckline is now just from bias binding not laying completely flat.
 
Navy Emery Dress
 
I love my new Emery Dress. It's my style, my colour, and is trans-seasonal. Who could ask for anything more? I'm also really happy with the small alterations I made to the pattern. I know I'll keep coming back for more Emery in the future. Perhaps it's time to start adapting the pattern and trying a lower neckline, pleated or circle skirt etc. 
 
Navy Emery Dress

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