Made in 2018 (Warning: long post!)

Hello to those still following this blog! I haven't blogged since 1 January 2018, so it's probably about time I posted a round-up of my 2018 handmades.
It's a long post! So here's a summary for those after a quick fix: 

2018 was a year of boxy tops and dresses, ruffles (sleeve, back and bum!), and lovely linen fabrics. I had success with a new pants pattern but the second half of the year focused on maternity friendly dresses. Hoping to get back to sewing pants late 2019. Below are some very glamorous selfies taken in the spare bedroom, work toilets and foyer. Enjoy!

1. In Progress...

In addition to a couple of unfinished dresses I'm hoping to get to before the end of summer, we're expecting our first baby due in March 2019! All is well with both baby and I. I haven't been sewing any maternity clothes per se but my love for tent dresses has really come in handy.

2. Black Feather Viscose Tessuti Lois Dress

This Lois Dress was a follow up from my wearable muslin - details here.  I prefer my first version which got a lot of wear last summer. But this black version has been a great option this summer as the floaty skirt still fits over my baby bump and is less sheer than the white version.

3.  Pineapple Ruffle Sleeve Noelle Top

I get so much wear out of my navy spotty ruffle sleeve top made late last year - another version was a no-brainer. I made both tops from a slightly modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern, but those ruffle sleeves are a simple addition to any boxy top pattern. 

This version was meant to be a casual summer vibe -  but I wonder if it's actually pyjama resort wear?

4. Double Weave Linen Cotton Gingham Dress

This dress is another modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern. 

Modifications include: cut width from the Centre front (see previous ruffle sleeve tops for details), sliced the back piece below the underarm for a ruffle back (details in ruffle top version), and lengthened for a mini dress. 

I found the double weave linen cotton blend (bought from The Cloth Shop) too heavy for me, but the dress found a new home with a good friend, and it has since received the love and wear it deserves.

5. 2* Butterick 6182 Box Top

My first Butterick 6182 is a copycat from a display at The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe. After months of eyeballing the fabric pattern combo I made my very own out of this beautiful cotton soon after to be followed by a navy linen/cotton blend.

I followed the pattern as standard - no changes necessary. The sleeve bands and front darts make this pattern a little more interesting and well fitted compared to other boxy tops I've sewn.

I've gotten a lot of wear out of these tops and thankfully they also work well with maternity skirts etc. I particularly love the navy version which has a nice drape.

6. Linen Tessuti Lisa Dress
I made this Tessuti Lisa Dress early 2018 and it got some good wear at the time. But it's been a godsend this past month or two as the weather heats up. There is so much room in the skirt that you almost can't tell I'm pregnant which is a nice change.  

I think the buttons may be cut just low enough to also work as a nursing dress without any modifications. Otherwise, I could lower the curved bodice/skirt seam a little and add an extra button for a great nursing dress/top. 

The pattern comes together well with lovely neat insides. I made the size small. Personally, I think the armscye is a little big with the underarms cut too low. On me, you can spot the side of my bra.  But, that's allowed for more bust room which is helpful at the moment. This version is made from a green/white chambray waxed linen from The Cloth Shop. I will definitely be making this one again.

 7. Black Linen Megan Nielsen Flint Pants

Not much to say as these are my fourth pair of the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants/Shorts. Details on previous versions here. 

As done previously, I've removed the front box pleat and added a double side button rather than one bigger button. I find the double button to be more secure and keeps the waistband from folding down.

 I LOVE this pattern and look forward to squeezing back into my Flints.

8. Denim Persephone Sailor Pants 
The Anna Allen Persephone Sailor Pants & Shorts were my first foray into sewing Jeans and a button fly. To sum up - I think this is a great first jeans pattern for those starting out!

The covered button fly means you can have some fun with your buttons rather than using metal jeans buttons. I went with plastic white and navy striped buttons on the covered fly and a navy sailor button at the waist. Next year I need to conquer metal buttons and hardware. 

I used non-stretch denim and found the fit pretty good but not super comfortable when sitting. Next year I'd be keen to sew up a black stretch denim pair.  

9. In the Folds Peplum Dress

If you haven't already checked out the free In the Folds patterns available on Peppermint Sewing School - Stop and do so immediately! There are a handful of fantastic patterns available, including the Peplum Top. I've sewn the top up twice before - both getting a lot of wear. Given how high the peplum starts the top is maternity friendly if you extend the peplum length. 

I made a dress version out of some gingham linen (also from The Cloth Shop) to get me through a big-bellied summer. I intended to make a size up for a little more bust room - but accidentally went up two sizes making the dress a little too big. But it works for a comfy summer dress and I'm keen to make another slightly smaller version. 

10. Burnt Orange Bum Ruffle Dress

By far my favourite make of 2018! This dress is the very popular Vogue 9237 Back Bum Ruffle Dress sewn in a vibrant medium weight burnt orange linen (Yep - fromt The Cloth Shop). The fabric easily transitions from winter to summer outfits - but I actually prefer it layered up with winter tights, boots and cardigans.

 Ruffles, Pockets, Maternity friendly - what's not to love?

Well actually the armsyce and neckline are way too high and restrictive, but both are an easy fix. I took around 1/2" from the neckline and the underarm. I have summer version in progress in a lighter fabric.

Thanks to those who made it through this giant photo dump. I'm not sure how often I'll blog next year. I mainly use instagram to follow along with the online sewing universe. Hope to see you there!

Happy New Year!

Peppermint Patterns Peplum Tops

In 2014 I set myself a goal to review 12 free patterns over the year. I still have a penchant for sewing on the cheap by using free patterns, refashioning and using scrap fabrics. There are some excellent free patterns available online. In particular, I love the selection on Peppermint Mag, including the Peplum Top Pattern. 

I've sewn two of these tops. The pattern is easy to follow with no darts of closures. Smoothing the bias binding flat is a little tricky. Especially at the back v neckline. 

This is a  great pattern to use up fabric remnants. The peplum flounce uses quite a bit of fabric, but I found that I didn't need it to be as full as the patterns asks for. The flounce on the black version is about 1/3 short. The floral version is a cotton silk remnant I had left over from this dress. The black spotty silk version i refashioned from this skirt. I found the skirt frumpy. The fabric was too good to be wasted on something I rarely wore.

I love the boxy cropped style of the top and the deep V back neckline. The top is incredibly comfy and goes well with my high waisted skirts and jeans. It's tricky to see, but in the photo below I'm wearing the top over a long-sleeved tee. Yay, for versatile clothes! This is a fantastic free offering and I absolutely recommend it.

I don't have many photos wearing these tops- strange, given I wear them all the time! These two photos are from this weekend. Tim and I stayed in the city to celebrate our wedding anniversary. 

Not My Wedding Cape: Peppermint Winter Wool Cape

A couple of weeks ago Tim and I got hitched and it was perfect!

I had considered making my wedding dress and even bought a few patterns but ended up falling hard over a dress I tried on when inspiration shopping. I absolutely loved my dress. And I'm really glad I bought a dress as Tim and I had a short engagement and trying to decide on a style, find the right fabrics, muslin and sew a dress in that time frame would have been an added stress that I didn't need.

But, I wasn't too sure what to wear over my dress in case of cool weather. I had a second-hand jacket that would do the job, but I couldn't get the idea of a blue cropped cape out of my mind. I searched the internet for inspiration and loved the idea of somehting like this, but wasn't totally convinced it would go with my dress. I decided to just give it a go and cut out the free Peppermint Sewing School Winter Wool Cape pattern. I cut a size small in some beautiful blue wool blend and blush silk fabric from Tessuti.

I made the pattern up as instructed with the following changes: I understitched the silk edge to wool seam allowances to help it stay inside the cape a little better. If I made the cape again I'd cut the silk a couple of mm's smaller than the main fabric to help with this also. I attached the neckband the opposite way around to the instructions so that the hand sewing would be on the inside. I used a hook and eye rather than a button and loops.

I love that this pattern has shoulder seams and arm space, rather than being just a semi-circle. You can still use your arms! I love the cropped length and the style. But, it wasn't right for the wedding. My dress was fitted up top and having a boxy cape took away from the shape of my dress. Also, the blue and white reminded me of an old fashioned nurse's outfit. My sister took some photos of the cape over my wedding dress for me a few days before the wedding. Below is the ridiculous photo that sealed the deal: the cape was not quite right.

But it is a lovely little cape. So that leads to question, where and how do you wear a little bright blue cape?

Cropped Tate Top & A Break

First up, a favourite new top. A cropped version of the Workroom Social Tate Top. This is a free pattern which I've made (and reviewed before) as top, a lined silk dress and a teaching top for my little sister. It's a great basic modern top pattern.

I thought a cropped version would look amazing in some black voile eyelet from Tessuti. But, the cropped pattern includes a slightly curved hem at the back and an angled hem at the front, which would mean cutting into the beautiful scalloped edge of the eyelet fabric. Instead, I straightened out the hem line in order to incorporate the scallop and made the hem line even to the longest point of the top. Otherwise, I cut a standard size 8.

As I was using eyelet fabric I decided to line the fabric in some black crepe poly I had on hand. I cut the lining bodice about half an inch shorter than the main fabric so that, after hemming, it wouldn't be visible in the lower scalloped edges.

I followed the steps I used when making a lined Tate Dress. I sewed the darts and shoulder seams on the twop tops separately; sewed them together at the neck and arms; turned the tops right way out and then sewed the side seams, centre back, and lining hem. Again, I used a hook and eye in preference to a zip.

I love how this top turned out and a have warn it quite a few times. Before this version, I began sewing and abandoned a lovely lawn cropped version from fear of it showing too much stomach. I will definitely use this straightened out longer cropped hem for future versions.

Now, to my sewing/blogging hiatus. Before I started sewing I shopped. A lot. I would buy a new garment/item probably every week or two. In 2014, I was so excited by my advancing sewing skills and the ability to make the exact garment in my head for any particular occasion or just for fun. I averaged 2 garments sewn per week, sewing late into every evening. There was little need to shop anymore. As well loving learning a new skill, sewing was also an outlet during a rough patch in my PhD (the inevitable "why am I doing this?" stage).

From about mid-year last year my sewing slowed up. I since sew around once a month and blog less than that. I'm still an avid reader of sewing blog posts and take great pleasure in looking through my fabric stash, but I rarely feel the pull to sew. I haven't reverted back to weekly shoping trips. While I still love shopping, I don't like buying things I know I can make and I also just feel less need to have a new outfit every other week. I sew when I need a specific garment for an occasion. I'm not too sure why my sewing has slowed up so much but I still get so much joy from my occasional making. I'm not going to question it, just sew when I feel like sewing. In the mean time I'll probably blog few items I never got around to.

Itty Bitty Baby Clothes

My sister and brother-in-law recently had twin girls! I wanted to make something for their arrival and the free Made by Rae Itty bitty baby dress pattern came to mind, along with the free MADE diaper cover bloomers. There are so many free patterns out there for kids, but especially for newborns to 12 month old's. Aren't we aunties lucky?!

I made two 0-3 month old dresses using small pieces of liberty of london fabric and bias binding I found in my stash with contrasting pink and white gingham cotton I cut from an old dress that I no longer wear. The cotton is lovely and soft. The dress came together very quickly! Baby clothes are so quick to sew, being tiny and all.

For the bloomers I used the old MADE diaper cover pattern as I already had it printed. However, the pattern and tutorial have since been revised to improve the fold over leg holes that the leg elastic is threaded through. I made the bloomers as per the instructions except for adding a few strips of ruffled fabric on the backsides. I cut stripes around 1.5" by 10". I used my overlocker to finish the edges before attaching.

Congratulations parents Steph and Damian, and big sisters A & A,  on you're two beautiful new daughters/little sisters!

Marilla Walker Ilsley Skirt

Tim and I are heading to Vietnam next month (!) so I've been sewing a few light throw on summer garments to pack. The weather will be hot and humid with plenty of rain. This means lots of cotton, linen, rayon flowy garments. I have a couple of lightweight cotton skirts but they mostly have structured waistbands which could get a bit restrictive and sticky in the heat. I thought the free Marrila Walker Ilsley skirt might fill a holiday wardrobe gap. It's a comfy skirt thats easy to throw on over bathers or with a t-shirt.

I'm also aiming to pack really lightly, so I want everything I take to be able to be worn with multiple other garments, but most of my current summer skirts have floral patterns that clash with certain Tees and floral tops. Enter blue chambray from The Cloth Shop. The same stuff I used for my sisters Miette wrap skirt. It's very lightweight and easy to wear. I used a contrast light brown thread for all topstitching. Actually, I used about three shades of similar light browns. I kept running out of bobbin and spool thread. Can you tell? 

I sewed the skirt up in a size 4. The skirt pattern includes 6 pieces, no closures, front pockets, a gathered waist with an elasticised waistband. The pattern instructs you to use a thick 5cm wide piece of elastic, but since I didn't have any I chose to use three lengths of 1.25cm elastic and sew three 1.5cm wide casings.

The instructions don't include any diagrams but they are well written and easy to follow. Which is more than you can ask for when using a free pattern - Thanks Marilla! Seam allowance instructions for french seaming are included which results in a lovely clean finish.

I like the final skirt, but I don't love it. I really like the curved hem and the pockets. But there's a poof of fabric above my butt and I think I could do with more room back there. Perhaps a bigger size would have been better. Also, I would love the pockets to be slightly deeper - my phone pokes out the top. However, these are easy changes to make and I think it's going to a great holiday skirt. Easy to wear, goes with everything, dries quickly.

Also the skirt doesn't look half bad with tights and a cardigan so it's a versatile too. Today, I'm wearing it with my Megan Nielsen Maker Tee. I love everything about this tee- it supports a good cause, is made from organic cotton, fits great and is super cute. I received the tee as a thank you for pattern testing the Brumby Skirt. I cannot wait for it's release so I can blog about it. That skirt has been getting A LOT of wear. 

Relaxed Plantain

Happy Easter and long weekend! This weekend couldn't come soon enough -it's only a few months post Christmas but I absolutely needed the break. I'm still lacking motivation to sew, so I thought I'd post about a boring basic I made a few weeks back.

This is my first version of the free Deer & Doe Plantain T-shirt which has multiple sleeve length options, a deep scoop neck and is flared at the hips (although, you probably already know this as there are many many versions on the web). I cut a size 38, short sleeved, in some cheap crinkley lightweight jersey from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I used this same fabric to make the free Skirt As Top Scoop Tee in 2013 and it wore pretty badly, but it's fine for a pattern test. 

The pattern comes together really very easily. If you've made a knit top before then there is no need to use the instructions. I made the top completely on my overlocker except for twin needle stitching the hem. For the sleeves I turned the cuffs over twice wrong side out and tacked the cuff up in two places. My sewing machine is really unpredictable with knits so any time I can avoid using I will!

The size 38 fit a little big. I took the side seams in 1/4" but it's still quite spacious. I need to go down a size in the future. I also think the top would be slightly more flattering on me if I brought in the hips just slightly and heightened the scoop neck. However, the pattern is a fantastic basic to start from.

I plan to make some long sleeved versions, along with some renfrews, for winter. With these two basic patterns I'm set for winter basic tops which I pair with sleeveless dresses and tops. My other winter basic is tights. I'd love to try my hand at making my own tights but given my lack of sewing time and inspiration I might just stick with pretty dresses, skirts and tops, and buy my basics. 

Now that I know that I can make pretty much all on my clothes I really struggle to justify buying clothes - especially basics. Do others have this same problem? How do you justify buying clothes instead of making them?