Skirt for V and her doll

Even though I've been sewing less I've still managed to fit in a little bit of sewing for others. For my nieces V's 3rd birthday I whipped her and her doll Penny matching layer skirts.

I used the free tutorial from Dana MADE It as a guide. I cut the fabric just under twice the required width for a nice full gather. I used some treasured liberty fabric paired with the same denim chambray I used for her a skirt for mum, my sister.  I sewed up the two layers and hemmed them. I then attached them together at the waist with a wrong side of one layer meeting the right side of the other.

It sounds counter-intuitive but you can then hide this upper waist seam inside the waistband by turning down both layers as appropriate and sewing them together at the lower waist seam line.  I think the skirts turned out super cute and V and penny look pretty darn cute in them.

Itty Bitty Baby Clothes

My sister and brother-in-law recently had twin girls! I wanted to make something for their arrival and the free Made by Rae Itty bitty baby dress pattern came to mind, along with the free MADE diaper cover bloomers. There are so many free patterns out there for kids, but especially for newborns to 12 month old's. Aren't we aunties lucky?!

I made two 0-3 month old dresses using small pieces of liberty of london fabric and bias binding I found in my stash with contrasting pink and white gingham cotton I cut from an old dress that I no longer wear. The cotton is lovely and soft. The dress came together very quickly! Baby clothes are so quick to sew, being tiny and all.

For the bloomers I used the old MADE diaper cover pattern as I already had it printed. However, the pattern and tutorial have since been revised to improve the fold over leg holes that the leg elastic is threaded through. I made the bloomers as per the instructions except for adding a few strips of ruffled fabric on the backsides. I cut stripes around 1.5" by 10". I used my overlocker to finish the edges before attaching.

Congratulations parents Steph and Damian, and big sisters A & A,  on you're two beautiful new daughters/little sisters!

Tim's Birthday shirt 2015

It's been a couple months between posts. I haven't been sewing much and when I have been sewing I haven't felt like blogging. I've really enjoyed a break for Instagram, blog reading and my sewing-related social networking. But, with the weather warming up, I'm getting ready for some spring/summer sewing. In the meantime, some catch up posts with average (at best!) photos.

In August last year I made my first men's shirt for Tim's birthday; a Colette Patterns Negroni shirt. I made him another for his birthday this year, which marked the fifth shirt made in the last 12 months. All of his shirts are in high rotation and I love rushing out of the house each work morning realising we're both wearing clothes I've made us.

I bought this blue and white small gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti earlier in the year. I love the italian cotton shirting Tessuti have been stocking and look forward to buying more when they receive more stock. The fabric is soft with a slight sheen and it presses really well. For the contrasting sleeve plackets, under collar, and inner collar band I used salvageable fabric from one of Tim's worn out shirts. I also reused all the buttons of the old shirt.

Why yes, that is my finger at the bottom of the photo...

I was hoping to make a long sleeved version of the Simplicity 1544 I'd made Tim this summer, which has a nice traditional collar and button placket. However, Tim prefers the fit through the body of the Negroni shirt, which means I have to stick with my Negroni Archer Shirt pattern mash up to get all the shirt features his likes. For details on mash up process see my previous posts: 1, 2.

Before I attached the buttons

I didn't do anything differently this time around. I double interfaced the collar to make it extra crisp. I overlocked the edges and sewed the S/A to one side to create faux flat fell seams. for some reason this verson seems a little tighter around Tims under arms, but it doesn't bother him.  The one main difference with this shirt is the amazing fabric which, I think, makes it look much more professional.

Tim loves his new shirt and wore it the day of his birthday. We started the day off well, filling our bellies with with nutella french brioche before heading off to work. Delicious! 

Jess' Nascha Mini Skirt

I recently made up the Named Patterns Nascha Mini skirt for myself as a trial version. For a full pattern review check this post. I made this version for a friend who has been a wonderful support during my never ending (just kidding, or am I?) PhD candidature. It was a slightly late birthday present for which she chose the pattern and fabric.

I made up a size 36. Jess' measurements put her in between two sizes, but I checked out the finished measurements and picked the smaller size based on her preference for fitted clothes. Jess picked a tartan wool blend from Clegs and a navy lining. I spent some time getting the tartan to match up on the centre front/back and sides. I did a pretty good job horizontally but I fudged it vertically. 

After making up the skirt once before the instructions were SO much easier to follow. I'm so glad I made up a trial version for myself, I felt much more confident inserting the exposed zipper and lining. 

The fit is pretty spot on. I did one fitting with Jess, but no changes were required! Woohoo! And  doesn't she look lovely in her new skirt? Thankfully, the skirt seems to be very well received. Happy Belated birthday Jess! 

Simplicity 1544: Short Sleeve Shirt for Tim

After making Tim three Negroni's, two of which I hacked to include a collar stand and button plackets, it was time to try a different pattern. Hopefully one that "had it all".

The Simplicity 1544 shirt has pockets, back yokes, collar and stand, button plackets and placket cuffs. But I'd bought some gorgeous shirting from Tessuti with a short sleeves shirt in mind so I needed to make a shorter sleeve. Unsurprisingly, creating a short sleeve is 100% easier than hacking button plackets and collar bands etc. Phew! I simply measured the Negroni short sleeve and marked it on the Simplicity sleeve pattern.

I made a muslin from some yucky poly striped fabric that made Tim look like he stole the Banana's In Pajamas shirt. This was my first time making a muslin that I didn't hope to make wearable. It was incredibly liberating being able to make something up so fast and with so little care for the finishing's. No finished seams, clipped curves, or pretty top stitching here. It took me just 45 minutes to sew it up! 

From the muslin we decided that the fit was fine except for needing to take a small amount of width from the sleeve and shortening it a lot. I took 4" off the Negroni sleeve length, created a 1" hem, and then folded it outward 1" and tacked it down to create a cuff look. I also took 1/4" from the sleeve width grading to nothing at the shoulders. The only other changes I made were to omit the yoke tab, and additional country style top stitching.

The fit of this shirt is definitely a looser around the torso than the Negroni Shirts but that's fine for casual summer shirt. For a more formal or business wear shirt you could easily add some back darts where most of the excess room is. Next time I make the shirt, probably a long sleeve, I'll fold out a little more width in the sleeves as well.

The instructions were reasonably clear and easy to follow. There's no suggestion to flat fell the seams. Instead the instructions have you overclock the edges of the shoulder seams and then turn them inside for top stitching. I also did this down the sleeve and side seams.  

The collar stand and collar are sewn on very similar to the Archer shirt, but the button bands are both wide separate pattern pieces that are interfaced, attached to the body,  folded inwards and then top stitched down. The hem is created before the button band and then the band bottoms are sewn wrong sides out and then turned inwards so that they are even with the hem. I quite liked this process but they do create very thick button bands.

I absolutely loved working with this fabric. It was sturdy and forgiving. The button holes and top stitching went in like a dream. Summer is officially over but I hope we have a few warm days left so that Tim has the chance to wear his new shirt and I can get some more wear out of all the dresses!

Nat's Miette Skirt

I've just given my sister a Tilly and the buttons Miette Skirt after saying I would make it about 2 months ago. Thankfully there is still some summer left to wear it.

I first made the made up a miette skirt in 2013. It was one of my very first sewn garments. I remember it taking a while to sew but coming out lovely and giving me a huge confidence boost. I wore it a lot for about 6 months. I made up another skirt for myself and one for Nat in black drill with green contrast ties around the same time. Over 12 months later, I found myself making another version for Nat in a gorgeous denim chambray from the Cloth Shop, and finding it to be one of the fastest and simplest garments I've sewn in months.

Sewing Nat's Miette took no more than an afternoon, plus a tv show to hand sew down the waistband facing. On my first attempts at this skirt I followed the detailed online tutorials exactly. This time I glanced at the 1 page checklist and, if I'm honest, I could have easily sewn the skirt without it. I'm not trying to toot my own horn, I'm just quite shocked to find something I found tricky to now seem ridiculously easy.

I don't wear my Miette's much anymore, as they're a bit faded and ratty, but I suddenly feel the need for another one just like this. Nat wear's her miette's around her hips so I cut her the same size that I would wear around my waist and it fits us both perfectly. But, of course, a wrap skirt is a lot more forgiving to size differences. Below is the same skirt but tied around the waist. Hmmm, yes, I may need a matching one!

There are plenty of similar vintage patterns out there for a nice A-line wrap skirt but for a beginner I absolutely recommend this pattern purely for the instructions alone.

Another Shirt For Tim: Negroni Archer Hack #2

Another shirt for Tim. I cut this one out ages ago after seeing a man on a tram wearing a similar black and white gingham contrast shirt.

I again used my hacked Negroni Archer pattern pieces. See this post for more details on that. I made one further mod by taking out a further 1/2"of fabric from the width of each sleeve and the fit is better in this shirt than the previous versions.

I made a few mistakes at the time of cutting out. I some how cut the front bodice pieces with a thinner centre front. To solve this issue I used tiny seam allowances and cut slightly wider button plackets. Thankfully, it doesnt seem to have affected the fit. 

When attaching the collar I found that the collar stand was a good half an inch larger than it should have been. I had absolutely no spare fabric so I eased those collar stands in like crazy. You can't really tell from the outside but the centre back inside is a mess! By this time I considered binning the shirt but Tim convinced me that some of his RTW shirts have wrinkly collar stands from excess fabric and that it really didn't look that bad.

I used the contrasting fabric for the back yoke, inner collar stand, button placket, cuff placket and cuff facings. Because this shirt was looking to be on the dodgy side I simply faux felled the seams by sewing the seam allowance, overlocking the edges and top stitching them to one side at the side and sleeve seams.  I don't regret this, it still looks nice inside and out. 

The final shirt fit great and you can't see any of my terrible mistakes. The fabric contrast is really fun but still professional enough for work.

The Negroni bodice really fits Tim very well but I'm keen to try other shirt patterns that don't require as much hacking to get the look he's after. Next up is a Simplicity 1544 with short sleeves. I've even gone to the effort of making a muslin. I have some gorgeous Tessuti shirting I'm going to use for the real thing and after that I might take a little break from men's shirt making.

Catherine's Alice top

This year I sewed a present for Tim's mum, Catherine, for Christmas. 

When I made up my first Tessuti Alice Top I knew it would suit her perfectly so put away in my mind the idea that I might make her a version at some point. In November I saw this gorgeous red and white textured cotton Japanese lawn in The Cloth Shop and knew it had to be for Cathy. This fabric just looks like her. The yoke and armbands are lined with a cotton  / silk blend. 

I wanted the present to be a surprise so I had some drama's trying to figure out appropriate sizing in discussions with Tim and his Dad. I tried visually sizing her up (which was weird) but one thing sewing will teach you is that actual body measurements are different from RTW and what you think someone looks like. In the end I took a gamble and made up the top in the XS (same size as me). Thank goodness, it fits! The size is spot on and Cathy wore the top Christmas evening.

I was very nervous and excited to give this gift and so relieved when it fit. Cathy looked fantastic in this style top and the beautiful fabric. For a review on making up this top, including printing tips check out my first and second versions. That's the last of my hand made 2014 Christmas gifts. Better get started on next years. Jokes, it's going to be all about me me me for a while!

Christmas Gifts For Nieces & Nephews

Another installment in Christmas gift sewing 2014. This time, the gifts I sewed for some of my nieces and Nephews.

For my youngest niece, V, I made the free Pleated Playsuit Pattern by Elegance & Elephants out of some left over quilting cotton and bird linen from her mum's Alice top. I cut a size 2 and followed the instructions baring two changes: I extended the short cuffs so they could be folded up and tacked down and used two rows of 1/4"elastic instead of 1/2"elastic because that's what I had on hand.

I love this pattern and will definitely make it up again some time. If only it cam in my size!

I made V and two older nieces, A & A, drawstring skirts using Melly Sews tutorial. I've made up this skirt before and I think it's a great pattern to sew for kids who you don't have the exact measurements of. The drawstring means they can always draw the skirt tighter or looser.

I made the girls skirts in various cotton drills and poplins from spotlight. They are super bright and fun. Hopefully the girls think so too. I especially like the way the folded over pocket flaps look on the stripey version. V striped down to get straight into her skirt during Christmas lunch. She seemed particularly keen on the pockets.

My nephews J and R received new MADE Kid Shorts as they have grown out of last years versions. I have definitely gotten my moneys worth from this pattern. I think I would've sewn at least 30 pairs now. 

I made these shorts from some cotton drills (green stars and black and white geometirc print) and cotton poplin (hot air balloons). I asked Tim to come help me pick out the fabrics for the boys as I really struggle to see "manly" fabrics among the sea of floral's, pinks and purples. I'm not sure if we hit the mark, but we tried.
 

Like last time, I added welt zipper pockets for the boys shorts in addition to back patch pockets. I used fabrics left over from Tim's Pooch PJ Shorts for the pocket linings so there is a little bit of fun in each pocket! I also added cuffs to J's pair of shorts as they are popular at the moment and I thought he might like them.

Thanks goodness another year of Christmas sewing is over! While these are all simple patterns they do take a bit of time to come together each year from planning to gifting. It is super fun sewing up clothes in such bright and sturdy fabrics though and I love seeing the kids in their gifted clothes during the year.

Spotty Jed's and Pooch Darcy Boxers

First up in blogging Christmas gifts are Tim's Jed's and Darcy Shorts.

I made a pair of Thread Theory Jedediah Shorts for Tim last November and he wears them all the time. As a part of his Christmas gift I decided to make another pair, this time from some navy and white spotty drill from Spotlight. I left sewing Tim's gifts until I'd finished sewing for my nieces, nephews and others. I was putting these shorts off as they were quite a big project last November. Turns out, after another year of sewing experience they were relatively simple and quick!

I made up size 32 again and they fit great. I followed the instructions exactly except for the bias binding the seams. I made the binding, but piked out deciding that the overlocker looked neater than the bias. For this version I rolled up the hem and sewed them down at the side seams. Even with the rolled hem I cut 2" of the shorts. I need to remember to make this change to the pattern next time so as not to waist the fabric.

This time around I took the time to add the decorational stitching on the back pocket, although you can't really see it, and I also used this method to reinforce the pocket and hide all raw seams. My only other change was to fold under the waistband seam allowance and stitch in the ditch rather than leaving the bound edge exposed.

The instructions are reasonably good and where they lack the sew along holds your hand. Two things I love about this pattern/instructions are the fly insertion instruction and also the way the waist band centre front is attached. The instructions really simplify the methods and provide a very professional look I think. Tim wore these Christmas day and looked fabulous in them if I do say so myself!

I also made up the Measure Twice Cut Once Darcy Shorts for some PJ shorts for Tim. They have a functional button fly and an exposed waistband. I cut a size large which looked ginormous before adding the waistband but the fit turned out perfect.  I made them from some Dog cotton from Spotlight and they are pretty darn cute. 

The instructions have a women's and a men's variation. I followed the Men's in addition to adding 7cm of length to each short leg so that the hems hit just above the knees. The instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. However the elastic length and button placement is left for you to decide. Tim really likes these Jammie shorts and they are perfect for out summer nights.