The Elisalex Dress Journey & Unintentional Copycat

Making this Elisalex Dress was quite the journey. I bought the pattern from indie stitches in April. Perhaps it wouldn't be such a frustration if I was sewing it up now, instead of earlier in the year when my sewing skills were still fairly wobbly. But I doubt it.  Here's a photo of the final product before I get on with the gory details.

According to my measurements I cut a size 12 grading to a 14 waist and hips. I cut the skirt length the smallest size as I knew it would be longer than my preference. I used the same thick poly fabric as my A-line Libby skirt and some floral cotton I picked up at an op shop for the lining. This dress is an unintential copycat of Busy Lizzy from Brizzy's third elisalex. It was meant to be a wearable muslin that I planned to wear out to a friends birthday dinner in May this year. That didn't happen.  

Sewing up the dress wasn't too much hassle. The instructions were fine, I followed them closely, and everything came together easily. When I tried on pre-zipper insertion I noticed a few problem areas. the waist seam was too low, the straps were too long, the bodice too tight at the sides and there was massive gapeing on both the back and front neckline. I made the following adjustments: 

1. Took the waist seam up by 1/2".
2. Took the straps in by 1/4"
3. Took out the bodice side seams 1/4"
4. Inserted the zipper with a larger seam allowance at the top of the CB grading down to normal S/A by the waist to remove some back gape
5. Shortened skirt so that you could see my ankles...also my knees (took 9" off!).

These kind of adjustment aren't totally crazy, and I expected to have to make a few changes so I wasn't too bothered. I finished the dress and tried it on. It fit (just) and I was trying to convince my self it looked OK. I went to show Tim and it was clear that this dress was still all wrong on me. Alas, I wore a different outfit that night and Elisalex sat under my sewing table for months. 

Before Frocktails (September) I had the sudden inspiration to fix this dress so that it could be a back up option if I didn't get around to making my Elisalex Emery Hybrid (so glad I did though!). I tried it on, pinned some problem areas and took a few shots. In the photos you can see that there is still about an inch of excess fabric in the shoulders; the waist is still too long (about 3/8"); there is a lot of excess fabric at the back waist, and; it's just too tight! I didn't take a side on shot (sorry!), but when looking side one you could also see that the back waist dropped down at the CB (about 3/4" lower than the front and sides) which made the skirt lopsided and also my chest was squished flat by the too tight upper bodice. 

More changes followed:

1. Took in the shoulder seams by 1/2"
2. Took out the front princess seams, in particular around the bust region and less so at the waist.
3. Unpicked the skirt from the bodice, trimmed down the bodice waist by 1/4"at the front and sides grading up to a 3/4"at the centre back. This helped with the skirt dropping at the centre back and the excess fabric at the back. 

So how does it look now? Still no where near perfect. It fits much better than it did and is definitely wearable. However there is still gape-age at the back neckline, the front bodice still gives the effect of flattening out my front, and there is still some excess fabric in the back bodice. But, its wearable...

Will I wear it? Well I finished this dress in September and I haven't worn it yet except to get blog photos. It's not flattering, and more than that, when I look at it on all I see are the problems I had with fitting this pattern. The fabric isn't helping. I think it looks really effective  but it doesn't feel great to wear and it puckered along the seams and hem.

Will I sew another Elisalex Dress? Nope, I'll definitely use the (shortened) skirt pattern to hack other dresses and also to make skirts, but that bodice doesn't remotely fit my body. The bodice pattern doesn't flatter my shape, its roomy where it shouldn't be and tight and flattening where I need the room. Obviously my body isn't the BHL type. I know it would be possible to alter the bodice pattern but I just don't think it's worth it. I have other princess seamed dresses/ bodice patterns that fit me much better. I've read a mixed reception about the Elisalex pattern. For so many its their go-to party dress pattern that works everytime. For others, like me, the fitting and muslin's required to make it work are just too much. 

Am I happy I finally finished the dress? Yes! I don't know if I'll where this dress, but I'm so glad I finished it and it no longer haunts me from the corner of my sewing room.

Emery - Elisalex Hybrid

Early in this year I bought the Emery Dress and the Elisalex Dress patterns from Indie Stitches. I've since posted three emery dresses plus two emery skirts. In contrast, I've posted 0 - zilch Elisalex dresses. I have actually made one Elisalex, which I've finally made wearable, that I'll post another time. I ended up loving the Elisalex skirt, but the fitting issues with the bodice just weren't worth the effort for a basic princess seamed bodice (more on that to come). Enter the Emery Elisalex hybrid.

I bought this amazing fabric from kinki gerlinki who sell a small amount of varied unidentified fabrics. I have know idea what this fabric is. The rose print is embroidered on with a soft (maybe silk) thread) and the peach background fabric is sheer, crisp and melts under a warm iron. It's quite sheer so it had to be fully underlined in a white cotton lawn (e.g. what I had around).

To make my Emery Elisalex hybrid I cut an Emery bodice in a size 6, grading to an 8 from the bust down. I made my usual alterations (see here). I cut the Elisalex skirt in a size 14 and shortened the pattern by 9" (I'm an average 5'5 tall). 

After underlining all the pieces I sewed the dress pieces together with French seams (except for the waist and back seam. I basted the skirt to the bodice to see how the seams, darts and pleats aligned from the two patterns. They were way off! I unpicked the skirt pleats and re-pinned the skirt to the bodice aligning the centre back and side seams. I then re-inserted the box pleats, making them the size of the left over fabric. This means that the back pleats ended up being slightly wider, and more similar to the original pattern, than the front pleats.  This isn't too noticeable while on and I'd rather it to unmatched seams.

I used the zip I had on hand, which was white. I regret it. moving right along. I finished the armholes and neckline with purchased bias binding. So that the shell of the dress was uninterrupted I hand stitched the binding and hem. It was really nice to take the extra effort with this dress and it does make it feel a little more special.

I'm really happy with how this Emery Elisalex hybrid dress turned out. I'll definitely be combining these patterns again.  It's just a little bit extra special compared my usual makes. I wore this dress to the Melbourne Frocktails event hosted by Oanh. There were so many gorgeous dresses in one room. In fact we got asked by a man in the restaurant who we were and why we all looked so fabulous? It was a lovely night, but of course we all wished we were attending the Sydney version.

Good golly, it's Polly

Earlier this month By Hand London released a FREE pattern for a sleeveless tank. The Polly top is a perfect stash-busting tank for beginners, or for those looking for a quick sew. I love anything that is free (!) and Polly does not disappoint!

 I had the PDF pattern downloaded and taped together quick as lightening. I went looking in my very modest stash for something appropriate. I'd recently bought some Japanese lawn from Spotlight which I had no plans for so all I needed was something for the center piece. I rarely have any solids in my stash, I ended up rummaging through a 'for the op-shop bag' and found an old navy skirt to cut up. 

I'm currently a 35-29-39, so I made a size US 8/UK 12 going off the finished measurements to make sure the top would flare out enough to fit my hippity-hips. I couldn't for the life of me get the center piece notches to match up with the front top notches. I gave up, winged it, and it turned out just fine. When I tried the top on I noticed that the arm holes were huge on me. I removed an inch on either arm. I don't know if this was a pattern tracing issue or what. At least it was an easy fix. I also altered the front of my top to be a straight hem as I am very short torso-ed and the long front made look hippier than I prefer.

I REALLY tried to get some good photos of  Polly outside.  No such luck. I will keep working on the photography skills. 

Polly is super comfortable. She's already gotten a bit of wear. The only issue with Polly is she is a little big around my shoulders and chest. I made a mental note to make a smaller size next time.  

My sister decided she also wanted a Polly and in opposing colours. To be clear,  we are not twins. But occasionally we dress like we are. I made my itty-bitty sister a size US 2 / UK 4. Note that I didn't have any issues with the excessively large arm holes this time, but I still winged the matching up of the center piece and front top. 

My sister and I are similar in the shoulders so I thought I would try it on, being careful not to stretch it. It actually fits! It's a perfect fit in the shoulders and chest but much tighter than I would like in the hips. Polly is supposed to be a loose fit but I really like the way this version fitted me. For my next version I will make a size US 4/UK6 and grade way out in the hips. And I will defiantly make Polly again. She is a satisfying and quick make that has a unique look. Thanks By Hand London for looking after us students with this freebie!

Finally, let me introduce my gorgeous (and comfy) new Freedom sewing chair! For months I've been complaining to Tim (the bf) about my sore back and stealing our super comfy computer chair when we's not looking. Can you believe I found such a good looking chair which is also really comfortable? Now its time to update the rest of my sewing space (I'm looking at you sewing table/cabinet!!!). 

You have to start somewhere

So here I am, officially trying to connect with the AMAZING online sewing community!

I've been resistant to start a blog. My photography skills suck and my writing is ordinary at best. But, and it's a big but, all the wonderful sewing blogs on the interwebs have really supported and helped me in my sewing endeavors over the last 11 months!

I've never been much of a hobby's sort of person (other than the obvious: shopping, movies, eating). After my not-so-subtle hints, my bf  bought me a Janome sewing machine for my birthday last year. It took a while before I was confident enough to make anything. My first project was easy-peasy Christmas bunting - I can't wait to bring it out again in a few months!

Before I made anything, I was absorbed in blogs, books, patterns etc. I'm a 'learn/plan first, do later' kind of girl. I have now sewn quite a few items, but my systematic checking and reading of my most beloved sewing blogs still occurs most evenings.

To dip my toes in the water, I joined Instagram . My first gram (?) was this work in progress By Hand London Polly Top. I was immediately made to feel very welcome by Elisalex (co-founder). This was so encouraging!

While I am already obsessed with Instagram, I also want a place a share my sewing experiences. And so, it's time for me to try and contribute something to this amazing online sewing community.

At the very least, this blog is a place for me to document my sewing challenges and triumphs.  If my post's get read and any readers are able to help me out with my sewing questions and problems along the way than that is a bonus. If I am able to help others with their sewing, than that's even better! Wish me luck on  my sewing/blogging journey.

Also, I promise to work on improving my photography and writing.

I would love to hear from you, so please fee free to leave a comment.

Liz X