Blue Merino Coppelia Cardi

My pink and black Papercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigans have got to be some of the most worn garments in my cupboard. I wear cropped cardigans a lot and their neutral tones are perfect for just about every occasion. Unfortunately my pink merino cardi has a few holes (which I'll sew up) and the cheap black fabric has pilled.

I bought some ribbed navy merino from The Cloth Shop with plans to sew another Coppelia in the hopes that more will mean extending the life of all of them. This fabric is a gorgeous colour, lightweight and stretchy. In fact it may be a little too stretchy, lacking the recovery needed for a tight fitting wrap around cardi. I'm just going to have to be extra careful not to stretch it out.

I once again made a size XS upped bodice/Sm waist. While it is cropped, this pattern still uses up quite a bit of fabric with the long wrap around ties and front bodice ribbing.  

I made the cardi almost completely on my overlocker. I following the instructions with two exceptions: 1) I didn't leave a space in the bodice side seams to pull the wrap ties through as I never use the hole on my pink cardi. 2) I attached the hem wrap ties differently so as to avoid having to use the sewing machine as much as possible. I pinned and sewed the ties wrong sides out after folding the cardi inside the ties as much as possible. I left a small gap at the centre back to pull the cardi right side out and attached this section using the sewing machine. It's a bit difficult to explain, but Sophie has a photo tutorial which shows something very similar (steps 6,7,8).

Nothing more to say, other than that I'm glad to add another Coppelia Cardy to my wardrobe and there's always room for more. I couldn't be more in love with this pattern and absolutely recommend it to others who like cropped cardigans. 

Refashioned Merino Bonnie Jumper

Tim wears these Country Road Merino jumpers over work shirts in various neutral colours. He has a stack of them and I regularly sew up holes in the elbows for him. The fabric is great quality but quite thin. His dark grey jumper had a hole in the elbow but also around the neckline so he decided to replace it and I claimed the holey jumper for myself!

I used the Bluegingerdoll Bonnie Jumper pattern to refashion a cropped, long sleeve high neck jumper from the old Vneck jumper. I was able to cut around the neckline holes but I did darn up the elbow hole. I also reinforced the holey area with some black lightweight interfacing.

I cut the pattern pieces so the old ribbed bodice and sleeve hem could be selvedge. I took 1" of the bodice pattern as I like the Bonnie jumper a little more cropped and then aligned the bottom of the bodice pattern pieces (where you'd attach the ribbing/waistband) just above the ribbed hem. Because a cropped jumper uses a lot less fabric than a mens jumper I was also able to cut a strip of fabric to use as the neckline band.

I've made the Bonnie top before, cutting a size 10 grading to a 12 at the waist. This time I cut a straight 10. I loved my first sewn bonnie top but the low neckline makes it less versatile over different style dresses and shirts. I wanted this version to have the high neck so it didn't matter what I was wearing it over. I used Version A for the neckline and bodice length but view C sleeves.  I was able to sew the jumper completely on my overlocker. Not having to hem the sleeves and waistband made this a super quick project.

I really like the fit of this jumper and the cropped length is perfect. However, I find the back neckline sits a little low and I couldn't tell which bodice piece was front and which was back. I sewed the old country road tag into the back neckline to help. I'm going to get plenty of wear out of this jumper and I'm hoping to claim a few more of Tim's jumpers in the future.

  

Relaxed Plantain

Happy Easter and long weekend! This weekend couldn't come soon enough -it's only a few months post Christmas but I absolutely needed the break. I'm still lacking motivation to sew, so I thought I'd post about a boring basic I made a few weeks back.

This is my first version of the free Deer & Doe Plantain T-shirt which has multiple sleeve length options, a deep scoop neck and is flared at the hips (although, you probably already know this as there are many many versions on the web). I cut a size 38, short sleeved, in some cheap crinkley lightweight jersey from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I used this same fabric to make the free Skirt As Top Scoop Tee in 2013 and it wore pretty badly, but it's fine for a pattern test. 

The pattern comes together really very easily. If you've made a knit top before then there is no need to use the instructions. I made the top completely on my overlocker except for twin needle stitching the hem. For the sleeves I turned the cuffs over twice wrong side out and tacked the cuff up in two places. My sewing machine is really unpredictable with knits so any time I can avoid using I will!

The size 38 fit a little big. I took the side seams in 1/4" but it's still quite spacious. I need to go down a size in the future. I also think the top would be slightly more flattering on me if I brought in the hips just slightly and heightened the scoop neck. However, the pattern is a fantastic basic to start from.

I plan to make some long sleeved versions, along with some renfrews, for winter. With these two basic patterns I'm set for winter basic tops which I pair with sleeveless dresses and tops. My other winter basic is tights. I'd love to try my hand at making my own tights but given my lack of sewing time and inspiration I might just stick with pretty dresses, skirts and tops, and buy my basics. 

Now that I know that I can make pretty much all on my clothes I really struggle to justify buying clothes - especially basics. Do others have this same problem? How do you justify buying clothes instead of making them?

Bluegingerdoll Bonnie Knit Top

I'm pretty quick off the mark blogging this one. Abby, from Bluegingerdoll, only released Bonnie this morning! I pattern tested the Bonnie knit top for Abby and have been living in it since. I got photos straight after making it in case it showed signs of wear by the time the pattern was released.

Bonnie is a fitted knit top with 3 variations: A) cropped length with short flutter sleeves; B) cropped with 3/4 sleeves and scoop neckline; C) long sleeved hip length boat neck top. I found view B particularly appealing. I make and wear so many fit and flare dresses (have you noticed?!) but don't have many cropped cardigans or jumpers to wear with them. View B Bonnie fills that gap perfectly.

I made Bonnie up in a size 10 grading to a 12 at the waist. I made two changes to this version: 1) I removed a little length from the bottom of the bodice as I'm a little short waisted and I wanted the waist band to sit right on my natural waist. 2) Added cuffs to the sleeve as my sewing machine twin needle wasn't playing nice and this meant I could construct the whole garment on my overlocker.

I used a gorgeous striped jersey from Tessuti for the main bodice and sleeves. The black is solid while the white stripes are actual lacey. I used a solid black jersey for contrasting bands.

Bonnie was incredibly simple to make and the instructions are spot on. The pattern would be a great intro to knits while still being a little different from many other knit patterns out there. I already own plenty of knit top patterns but Bonnie fills a gap and has enough options to make it versatile.

I love my new cropped jumper and see more in my life. The fit is great: fitted while being roomy enough to fits under layers. I think the cropped length is perfect. Although my sister asked if my jumper had shrunk so perhaps I took too much length off? 

Sew Cheap September Free Pattern Review: Hot Cocoa Sweater

This month I've been dealing with headcolds and a lack of inspiration. I have a number of free dress patterns I'd like to sew up for my monthly Sew Cheap Make and Pattern Review, but the weather isn't quite on my side yet. Enter Dixie DIY's Hot Cocoa Sweater. This pattern is a one size only, loose fitting, raglan sleeve, cropped high-low knit sweater. It's been made up my many other bloggers so get google-ing for more photos and inspiration.

In terms of sizing the sweater is recommended for women with a bust size of 34". However, the finished bust is a loose fitting 39". I'm a 35.5" bust and there is still plenty of room in chest area. Because this pattern is a loose fitting knit, it will fit across a fair few body types/sizes. It's also a fairly simple pattern so it should be reasonably easy to fudge your way through some basic grading.

I made up the sweater in a cozy light weight sweater knit from the Clear it warehouse. I can't recall the fabric content. What I can say is that it's incredibly soft, is grey and has a pretty silver thread through it. The colour is fairly dull, but perfect for a cozy weekend wear.

I sewed the sweater on my overlocker following the instructions precisely, except for top stitching the collar and seams. My sewing machine despises knits and I was lucky just to twin needle the hem without my machine eating the fabric and creating holes. The instructions don't have any diagrams but are thorough enough for most beginner sewers.

Something I LOVED about this pattern was the actual PDF. Each of the pattern tiles is positioned to the top left of page so that there's only left over paper to the right and bottom of the page. That means that you dont have to trim the pages before taping them together. This made me so happy. Dixie removed an entire step from the process! Why aren't all PDF patterns like this?!

I also love the resulting Sweater. I can definitely see a few more Hot Cocoa Sweaters in my life. Changes I'd make next time are to lengthen the arms, they are about an 1"too short; take the cuffs in by about 1/2" for a firmer fit, and; vary the length and make some non high-low versions just to mix things up. Overall, the Hot Cocoa Sweater pattern is a great beginner friendly option for a loose fitting knit jumper. The only draw back being that it comes in just one size.

Only three more free pattern makes and reviews for the year. Any body else freaking out about how quickly this year is passing and the prospect of the soon-to-be here Christmas period?

If you like this post, check out my Sew Cheap: Top Tips,  Sew Cheap: Free Patterns and previous Sew Cheap posts. 

Scarf Neck Cardy For Mum

My Mum's birthday is the same day as Tim's and I also made her present: a Swoon Scarf Neck Cardigan. The same free pattern I used to make my own beige cardy last month. I wear that cardigan ALL the time and it is incredibly comfortable. It seems mum's style so I whipped one up for her too.

 

 

 

I made her version out of a wool blend knit form the Cloth Shop. Its a gorgeous magenta purple colour. Tim took some super quick photos before I had to hand it over. I had a hard time taking it off and putting it in a gift bag. I may need to make another version just for myself. I didn't now I liked purple so much!

My mum is a little smaller than me so I cut the same size (S) but increased the seam allowances to 5/8" rather than 3/8" to create a slightly smaller fit. I also added some cuffs on the sleeves as I really like the finish, however I didn't take any length from the arms so its really nice to snuggle into.

I've been doing a bit of selfless sewing lately and I have more to get on with. I have been telling my younger sister I would make her a Cambie dress since Christmas, so that's a priority for this month! I also need to make Tim another Negroni shirt out of the "good fabric". To keep me interested I like to sew 1 or 2 things for myself between projects for others/ commitment sewing (because I'm selfish like that!) so I have a lot of sewing ahead of me this month. How's your month looking? Any fun sewing plans?

Sew Cheap July Free Pattern Review: Sew Loft Outfit

I'm generally quite excited to post about my monthly Sew Cheap free pattern make and review. This month, not so much. For my July Sew Cheap make I initially chose the Free Diana Cami pattern from Sew Loft. The singlet is a very simple, no dart boxy shape with a deep neckline and bias binding finish for straps and neckline. The cami come in sizes XS to SL (bust: 33" - 45").

So, I chose a crazy bright fabric for a flimsy skimpy singlet and then tried to take photos of it in the middle of winter. Clearly this singlet is more appropriate for the warmer months. I haven't shown my bare legs and arms in so long; I feel I may as well be starkers in these photos! To help me feel better about this incredibly bright top I decided to make a very boring (in a good way!) grey Sew Loft Karina Knit Pencil Skirt as well. The Karina skirt is another free pattern: a fully lined knit skirt in sizes XS-XL.

First up the Diana Cami: The Diana Cami Pattern has just two pieces (a front and a back) which makes it an easy PDF print at home option. I graded my pattern from a size small at the bust to a medium waist/hips.

The pattern instructions are incredibly detailed. The constructions involves French seaming the side seams, hemming, bias binding around the entire neckline/armsyce, making spaghetti straps out of bias binding, and sewing on your straps. I made two changes to the pattern constructions: 1. I folded over and sewed the tops of the front and back neckline to create tunnel's to thread my straps through. 2. I bought 1.5m of presewn satin strapping instead of making my own. I threaded the straps through the back and front neckline tunnels and doubled them over to the back where I sewed the straps down.

This fabric is oh so bright and bold, not to mention it's quite a stiff, but light weight, cotton. I think the Diana cami would be much nicer in a drapey silk or rayon. Hopefully I'll get some wear from the cami, but it might have to wait till summer when I can throw it over denim shorts.The Diana Cami is advertised as easy and I would agree with that. The trickiest/most time consuming part will be making your bias binding straps and adjusting them to the right height.

Onto the Karina skirt: I cut a straight size medium and followed the instructions precisely. They were simple, short and easy to follow. I made the skirt in approx half an hour, and it only took that long because I had double needle dramas. The Karina skirt only has one pattern piece which is used from the main fabric, the lining fabric and for the front and back skirt. I suppose this shows just how forgiving knit fabric is!

The skirt is a little on the firmer side than my preference but the double layered fabric, from the lining, makes me feel more secure in it than other knit skirts I own. I'm wearing the skirt in these picture at waist height and it's very comfortable! I know I'll get plenty of wear from Karina. I've also styled it here for the current weather (i.e. I got cold!).

There are so many free multi-sized top and cami patterns around but fewer skirt patterns. I think this basic pattern is perfect addition to anyone's collection. The skirt is labelled as an 'Easy' - and it most definitely was!

If you like this post, check out my Sew Cheap: Top Tips,  Sew Cheap: Free Patterns and previous Sew Cheap posts. 

Draped Coat & Renfrew Top

I've had the Draped Coat pattern from Teach Me Fashion for some time and I finally got inspired to make it up after a trip to Tessuti with the lovely Deanna I picked up 2m of grey medium weight wool/poly blend, which I knew would be perfect for the coat. How did I know this? Well, it was the same colour as the one in the pattern cover photo - aren't I creative?!

First off, let me state that it was very windy today! My sister, Nat, took these photos and, while I know I could have waited for another day, I have a growing pile of unblogged clothes and I didn't want to add this coat to that pile. In the end we embraced the wind. See below photos  of coat billowing in the wind. 

Back to the Coat. This sleeveless shawl collared coat has just three pattern pieces: Front, back, pockets. Given this, and the unfitted nature of the coat it should be no surprise that this is a very simple sew! I whipped up the coat from start to finish in just over 2 hours. This time including cutting out the fabric and watching the pattern YouTube tutorial. Teach Me Fashion Instructions are brief and don't include diagrams, so the YouTube video provides a fantastic a visual guide. 

The only techniques used in the coat are stitching & finishing the pieces, hemming all around the coat & armholes, and creating one flat fell seam where the two font pieces meet at the centre back collar. Without a doubt this will be the simplest coat you ever make! The project is perfect for beginners.

I really like the finished product of the coat. I especially love the pockets! The coat is a little different to my usual style though. I generally don't like jackets to finish around my low thighs as I think they accentuate my bottoms/hips. The coat goes so well with jeans but I hardly ever where pants, and the style really wouldn't suit my fit and flare dresses or high waisted skirts. On the other hand. It's super comfortable, looks polished (when the wind stops blowing it around) and goes well over basic long sleeves. I think it would go well with knit pencil skirts, too! I may get more wear out of it then anticipated.

  

In these photos I'm wearing the coat with an Olive Merino Sewaholic Renfrew Top. It's so satisfying being able to make your own cardy's, t-shirts and other basics. Especially in the cold months! Every winter I go shopping for new long sleeve tops and they get worn so much, and the fabric quality is normally so poor, that by the next winter they need to be replaced. So, I bought the Renfrew Top pattern while the PDF copy was on sale. 

I was shocked at how many pages it was, but with 3 neckline and 3 sleeve variations I guess I shouldn't have been. Only one suggestion for improvement - the instructions helpfully tell you what pages you should print and put together for different the variations so you don't have to do it all at once. However, unhelpfully, there are no page numbers included on the PDF pages.

I immediately made 5 versions (two black versions aren't pictured), all size 8, all version A (round neck long sleeves), except for one with 3/4 sleeves. The pattern recommends 1.6m of wide fabric to make version A. I managed to get most of these out of just 1m each. I made 2 from merino (black & olive) and 3 from various weight cottons (a sheer black, white, and a gold/brown). I followed the instructions precisely for the first Renfrew and the pieces came together perfectly. The only change I made was use the overlocker for construction rather than my sewing machine. The next four Renfrews came together in a quick afternoon.

I think the fit is spot on for comfy layered long sleeves. I love the scoop neck but I will certainly be giving the cowl neckline a go soon. I absolutely adore cuffs and hem bands on knits as it means no hemming, i.e. no use of the sewing machine! However, I've found the extra thickness of the hem band under skirts and dresses a little annoying. I might make a few extra without the hem band by lengthening the bottom and hemming with a twin needle.

I have more Renfrew's planned as well as some Deer and Doe Plantains. Sewing basics like these has allowed me to begin wearing fully me-made outfits, which  I love, and control the quality of fabric used. My yearly tradition of shopping for long sleeve tops will now be happily exchanged for fabric shopping and sewing.

*Teach Me Fashion generously gifted me the Draped Coat Pattern. Of course, all opinions are my own.*

Outfitted In Knits: Moneta & Coppelia

When Colette Patterns released new knit patterns I thought they were lovely, but not for me. I have the Teach Me Fashion Draped Skirt (see here) which is easily modifiable, so no need for Mabel. The Moneta is a pretty, gathered skirt and fitted bodice, knit dress with some really cute collar options. I didn't jump on it either. I don't find knit dresses flattering on me (also the reason I haven't bought any other knit dress patterns). But the blogging world wore me down. There are only so many amazing Moneta's on women of all different shapes and sizes you can see before you have to give it a go, no?  I gave in and bought Moneta (and the Negroni shirt, eek!) from Indie Stitches.

I bought this blush pink striped Alannah Hill knit from Clear it last week. It is beautiful, but I got it cheap and it's probably a bit pale for me so I was happy to use it for my first Moneta. For my first attempt I decided on Version 1 (lined) but without the pretty collar. The fabric recommendation for the main fabric is 2.5m, but I only bought 1m. It was a very tight squeeze and I had to include a centre back seam in the skirt. But, I made it fit! 

The fabric is sheer and very lightweight so lining was a must. I used cream cotton knit. Unfortunately I only had enough to line the bodice. The instruction booklet only explains how to join the bodice to the lining at the neckline for the collared version. Instead, I just sandwiched the two bodice pieces right sides facing and serged around the neckline, turned right sides out and pressed.

The instructions for sewing the lining and shell together at the arm holes were different to anything I've ever done before. Because of this I found them a little confusing. Thankfully Colette Patterns have a helpful video tutorial showing the steps clearly. It is a fiddly technique but works fine.

I cut a size small grading out to a medium at the waist. I made no fit adjustments on this version. I think the fit is ok. There is some draping at the centre front neckline which I could fold out of the pattern for any future version.While the fit is ok, I don't feel great in this version of Moneta. I will have to make another version in a thicker knit before I rule knit dress out of my wardrobe forever-more. 

I recently set aside some sheer black knit for another Papercut patterns Coppelia Cardy. I thought the black wrap cardy would be the perfect accompaniment for Moneta during the winter months. I made this Coppelia exactly the same as my first, except that I cut a straight XS. The fabric is silky soft. Flattering or not, this outfit is darn comfy!

I'm really happy with my investment in the slightly more expensive Papercut Patterns. Of the three patterns I own, I've made them all multiple times. The Coppelia and Ensis are great basic knit shapes and their patterns feel really 'me'. I will definitely be buying more and look forward to future pattern releases.