Maxi Ilsley Skirt

One last garment made and photographed in Vietnam: a maxi Marrila Walker Ilsley Skirt. The Ilsley skirt is a free pattern (woo hoo!) which, because of the elastic easy fit style, is very easy to modify into a number of different looks. My first version mostly followed the instructions and the pattern apart from changing the elastic casing method and style. This time round I made quite a few super simple modifications.



 

I wanted a maxi version which was very easily achieved. I just measured my desired length against my legs from where I wanted the skirt to sit at my hips; cut the pattern in three (although two would be fine) and inserted the additional inches between the top and bottom of the skirt pieces. 

Given the fabric was a drapey viscose (bought from Darn Cheap Fabrics) I wanted a bit more gathering in the skirt to "go with the flow". So I added 2" at the centre front and centre back fold. I'm not a huge fan of pockets on very drapey garments so I placed the pocket pattern piece under the front skirt pieces when cutting out the fabric to effectively remove the pocket.

I also made a few adjustment to the waistband. I still don't have any 5cm elastic on hand and I wanted this skirt to sit on my hip wear a wide waistband would be unflattering. Changes: I took about an inch of the waistband width when cutting out the fabric and sewed two button holes at the centre front to be used for the drawstring. After attaching the waistband I inserted a 3/4" piece of elastic, squished it right down toward the skirt and sewed a line of stitching right above it. This made the elastic channel the perfect width and created a nice gathered top to the skirt, kind of paperbag-esque. It's hard to describe, but it's a feature I've seen on lots of floaty maxi's in summer/surf clothing stores.

I made this skirt in a bit of a rush and the quality of the seaming at the curved hems is pretty average. None the less, I love the way it turned out and it was perfect for Vietnam. Light and cool and conservative enough for any temples we decided to fit into our day. Having a few maxi items in the luggage also helped when my white skin was struggling with the sun.

Here's a "how you doing" photo outtake. Sadly, my posts will consist of winter wear from here on out. I'm well and truly back to the reality of post-holiday life.

Marilla Walker Ilsley Skirt

Tim and I are heading to Vietnam next month (!) so I've been sewing a few light throw on summer garments to pack. The weather will be hot and humid with plenty of rain. This means lots of cotton, linen, rayon flowy garments. I have a couple of lightweight cotton skirts but they mostly have structured waistbands which could get a bit restrictive and sticky in the heat. I thought the free Marrila Walker Ilsley skirt might fill a holiday wardrobe gap. It's a comfy skirt thats easy to throw on over bathers or with a t-shirt.

I'm also aiming to pack really lightly, so I want everything I take to be able to be worn with multiple other garments, but most of my current summer skirts have floral patterns that clash with certain Tees and floral tops. Enter blue chambray from The Cloth Shop. The same stuff I used for my sisters Miette wrap skirt. It's very lightweight and easy to wear. I used a contrast light brown thread for all topstitching. Actually, I used about three shades of similar light browns. I kept running out of bobbin and spool thread. Can you tell? 

I sewed the skirt up in a size 4. The skirt pattern includes 6 pieces, no closures, front pockets, a gathered waist with an elasticised waistband. The pattern instructs you to use a thick 5cm wide piece of elastic, but since I didn't have any I chose to use three lengths of 1.25cm elastic and sew three 1.5cm wide casings.

The instructions don't include any diagrams but they are well written and easy to follow. Which is more than you can ask for when using a free pattern - Thanks Marilla! Seam allowance instructions for french seaming are included which results in a lovely clean finish.

I like the final skirt, but I don't love it. I really like the curved hem and the pockets. But there's a poof of fabric above my butt and I think I could do with more room back there. Perhaps a bigger size would have been better. Also, I would love the pockets to be slightly deeper - my phone pokes out the top. However, these are easy changes to make and I think it's going to a great holiday skirt. Easy to wear, goes with everything, dries quickly.

Also the skirt doesn't look half bad with tights and a cardigan so it's a versatile too. Today, I'm wearing it with my Megan Nielsen Maker Tee. I love everything about this tee- it supports a good cause, is made from organic cotton, fits great and is super cute. I received the tee as a thank you for pattern testing the Brumby Skirt. I cannot wait for it's release so I can blog about it. That skirt has been getting A LOT of wear. 

Not Birthday Tops: Maya & Noelle

I bought one of my sisters some lovely blue linen to make her a birthday top. We did a few practice tops to find the style and size she wanted. The Maya Top I posted here was trial number one, she wear's the top but it wasn't quite right for the special linen. I got a chance to take a few photos of the Maya top on my sister today. For more details on Maya see here or here.

Trial number two was a modified Noelle Top by Ulooop Patterns. I've sewn this top before and I love the outcome. I again modified the back to have a colour blocked gathered lower back bodice. I also added 6" length front and back for my tall sister who likes her tops quite long. I cut the smallest size (8).

The fabric is left over Tesutti linen (need more!) and some thrift-ed spotty who-knows-what for the back.

I top stitched  1/4" from all the seam lines in navy thread. The Noelle top is designed to be oversized but even so the initial version was just too big. I had to rip out all the top stitching as well as the seams to take the top in an 3/4" at either side grading to nothing at the hem, as well as taking the top up 1cm at the shoulders.

The final product is pretty darn sweet if I do say so myself and hopefully it will get loads of wear. Check out my gorgeous niece wearing her polkadot Made Kid Shorts.

My sister's actual Birthday top is now being sewn and the pattern ins't either the Noelle or the Maya top. Talk about spoilt! I'm currently sewing up a storm for other birthday and Chrissy presents. I was also able to sneak in a dress for my own birthday. I cant wait to get photos and post it later in the month.

Some Selfless Sewing

I haven't felt much like blogging lately. I've a few things I need to get photos of but I've mostly been focusing on selfless sewing as it tis' the season afterall. So, I have a few bits and pieces to share with minimal text.

First up, my niece has out grown the MADE Kids Shorts gifted to her last Christmas so I whipped up a few more pairs from fabric scrapes. Dotty chambray, green cotton, and pineapples with yellow mini pom poms. They were all well received, most of all the green pair. I know I'm bias, but isn't the above photo just ridiculously cute?!

I've been wanting to try Melissa's drawstring skirt tutorial since she posted it. I made up a size 2 in some really fun fabric. My niece loves this skirt and I'll definitely use the tutorial again and again for her as well as my older nieces as the tutorial goes up to a size 16 girls. I'm not always a fan of tutorials that require maths, measuring your self/ child, or drafting pieces but this one really couldn't be easier. A sizing chart is even provided. 

I made much smaller pockets than suggested ( I cut 5x6" rather than 6x9"). I also find the drawstrings a little tough to tighten through the single hole so next time I'll make two button holes, one for each end of the drawstring.

Finally, I promised one my sisters a simple loose fitting summer top for her birthday. We have the special linen put away while we try out a few pattern styles and sizes. First up is the Marilla Walker Maya pattern which I made not long ago for myself. I cut the smallest size but I could see from the measurement chart that it may still be too large.

I made the top from stash fabric: the front is a white and navy voil from spotlight and the back is a lightweight cotton from The Cloth Shop. Unfortunately the fit is just too large, even for a boxy top. Next time I will fold out some width at the centre front and back before cutting into the fabric. My sister also asked for added length. I added 1.5"on this version but next time I'll probably add around 3"total. Bedsides some fitting issues, it's a very sweet top and hopefully it will get some wear. 

Next up is some sewing for me (yay!), probably following my Xmas sewing. I'm sewing some Katey and Laney patterns and hoping to also get some photos of previous makes this weekend. So, who else is sewing Christmas presents out there? Only for the children in your life, or adults too?  

Marilla Walker: Maya Top

Happy hump day everyone. The year is flying by, and I'm so enjoying sewing for the coming summer. Marilla Walker recently released her first for sale pattern, the Maya Dress and Top Pattern pattern. Marrila has great style and isn't afraid to delve into what I consider to be "scary sewing". For instance, check out here gorgeous Shibori Maya Dress and amazing red leather handbag. The Maya Dress and Top fit pretty perfectly into my current obsession with boxy tops and shirt dresses so I was thrilled when Marilla asked me if I'd like the review her new pattern.

Maya  is a kimono/cap sleeve dress or top which hangs from the shoulders. The pattern includes heaps of variations: button or plain front; curved or straight hem; pockets; various lengths; as well as an option for a sash belt. The pattern is designed to include sleeve and neckline facings that are top stitched down and French seaming so that final top / dress has no internal raw edges.

For my first Maya I chose the top variation with a curved hem. I went with my bust measurement and cut a size 12. I decided to use polkadot chambray left over from my 2nd Alder Shirtdress  for the back, and for the front some soft white linen cut from a hand-me-down dress. The instructions are thorough but I suggest reading all the way through first as you need to know which parts of the instructions are relevant to the version of Maya you are making.

I decided not to use French seams as the linen and chambray felt a little thick when folded over each other. After attaching the facing you are instructed to press under the outer seam allowances and top stitch around. I love the clean finish. However, you can see the facings through the white linen and the folded over edge really stood out under the white. I ended up serging the edge of the facing instead before topstitching down.

I know some people prefer to use facings over bias bindings or vice versa, so I really like that the Maya pattern includes facings as it gives you the option of using them or instead using bias binding around the neckline and hemming the sleeves. In the instructions, Marilla suggests hemming the bodice pieces first if sewing the curved hem option as it can be fiddly sewing around the curve at the side seams. This is a great tip and really improves the finish of the hem.

I really like how this top turned out. I think it will be another high rotation summer top. My favourite features are the kimono sleeves and curved hem. I often have trouble fitting sleeves properly but kimono sleeves are so effortless and comfortable. I'm also pretty in love with the contrasting back and front. I'll definitely be making up a few more of these tops for summer. I want to try the cropped variation next, oh and also the button up version. How cute is this version made by Jenna! 

Disclosure: Marilla provided me with the Maya Pattern for free in exchange for a pattern review. All opinions are my own and I was pretty darn keen to try out the pattern regardless.