Megan Nielsen Brumby Skirt

I pattern tested the Brumby Skirt for Megan Nielsen and I have nothing but positive things to say about the just released pattern. It's a gathered skirt with deep curved pockets, an exposed back zip and various length and fullness options.

I made up version A in a size M out of some gorgeous lightweight black denim from The Cloth Shop with a 7" zip and liberty offcuts for the facing and pocket lining. I love the length of version A. It's mini without being too revealing. I also like that this pattern has a curved waistband, it's absolutely necessary for such a wide waistband.

The instructions were clear and detailed. I found the instructions for the exposed back zip really interesting and thorough. I'll definitely use them again for other patterns as they made for a lovely and easily inserted zip.

I did a lot of top stitching on this skirt and it was my first time using topstitching thread. In some places the thickness of the denim and the thread threw the tension off so it's a bit bubbly on the wrong side. But, I love the way the tan thread looks against the denim.

This is a super fun pattern to make and wear and I'd really like to make a midi version despite knowing that it just wouldn't suit me. Especially as I rarely wear heels. I look forward to seeing others versions pop up all over the web to see how they wear the midi style.

I've previously made up two patterns by Megan Nielsen (Tania Culottes and the Cascade Skirt), both skirts that are just a little bit different and special. I wear them both, but the simpler design of the Brumby skirt means it fits more into my everyday lifestyle. It's a go to option on the weekend in winter (with tights) or summer. I took the pattern testing photos in summer but I've got a heap of wear from the skirt since the cooler weather hit. 

* I received the brumby skirt pattern in exchange for  pattern testing. It was my choice to blog the final garment*

Christmas Liberty Alder Shirtdress

I wanted to make a dress especially for Christmas day but I don't think that's going to happen with all the present sewing I still have ahead of me. Instead I think I'll wear this newly made Liberty Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress. The colourway is pretty perfect for Christmas and I'll certainly be comfortable.

 

I bought the Eleonora Pink Red Liberty from Tessuti a few months back and immediately cut out a version B size 8 Alder Shirtdress. The pattern pieces then sat in a pile in my sewing room for some weeks. I think I was all buttoned out after making my three previous alder shirtdresses, alder shirts, and Tim's shirt.

There isn't much to say about making this dress that hasn't been said previously. The instructions are excellent and the dress is particularly simple to make if you already have shirt making experience. If not easier to make than a shirt as you don't have to worry about setting in sleeves and attaching cuffs.

The Liberty was amazing to sew with and press. It also feels great to wear and breaths well in the heat. I used self fabric bias binding as I've recently found that the pre-purchased binding often doesn't wear as well and the short time it takes to make it is well worth the effort. The buttons are tan coloured with black stripes coming from the centre.

I love this pattern and I know I'll get heaps of wear from the four I've made up all summer long, add tights and they're winter appropriate too.

 

So unless I'm feeling particularly ambitious Christmas eve this will be my Christmas day dress. Anyone else thinking they might squeeze in last minute hand-made Christmas dress?

Ulooop Lotus Top #2

After sewing up my first Lotus Top, Tianfei from Ulooop got in touch to say she'd drafted a slight variation on the sleeves/ armscye allowing for more arm movement (brilliant!). She sent me through the revised pattern and I whipped up another version. The pattern file is a layered PDF. I'd never used this function before and,to be honest, I didn't take any notice, just printed off the file as usual. My top turned out quite a bit different to my first so I wonder whether I muddled up the cutting lines after incorrectly printing the file. Thankfully, it's still wearable!

For this version of the Lotus Top I cut straight into some Liberty fabric. I won this fabric in a giveaway months ago. I adored the print on screen, and in person, but the the background colour doesn't do much for my skin tone. It makes me feel quite washed out. For these reasons I felt ready to risk the fabric on the top. 

The top came together quickly and easily. I made some self bias binding to bind the neckline. Over-locked the hem and sleeves before turning up once and stitching. French seamed the side seams.

The top turned out very wearable. There is definitely more room in the sleeves, and more arm movement possible. The scooped back is cute as ever and with a tad more sun the fabric will hopefully look a little nicer on me. There is some excess room in the centre front and back and the neckline on this version is a higher than my first Lotus. However, I suspect this is caused by my print/layered PDF issues. 

I'm really enjoying sewing up some quick and easy woven tops for summer. I cut out another Alder shirtdress at least a month ago but I can't bring myself to get started on it. I'm all about the afternoon make at the moment, and I have quite a few more to share.

Liberty Cord Grainline Studio Moss Mini

Last month I posted about my planned Liberty needlecord Grainline Studio Moss Mini and the Gorman skirt that inspired it. I chose this beautiful Liberty Rossmore Cord - LRC03542256C - Lesleys from Sew Box in the UK. First let's talk about how much I love the skirt and then I'll talk details.

  

Um, I love it a lot! The skirt is not perfectly constructed, but its still perfect in my book. It's super mini and super fun. It's a great summer length but also pairs really well with tights. The skirt feels really me and I love wearing it. Quick note, its been so overcast in Melbourne and all my outside photos turned out overexposed. Sorry!

The details. I cut the mini version in a size 8. I easily got the skirt out of the 1m I bought with all the pieces running in the same direction (phew). I was surprised by how delicate the Liberty cord was and decided to line in with a purple cotton sateen from spotlight. I've never lined a zipper fly skirt before and wasn't sure how to go about it so I made it up as I went along. In essence I made two versions of the skirt back and front but didn't include the pockets on the lining version.  

I basted the two skirts together, wrong sides facing at the center front fly and a few inches either side. I treated the lining and self fabric as once piece for the zipper insertion. The fabric was a little bulky and the liberty bunched up a little at the bottom of the fly cover. It's not perfect but I think the print hides the bunching pretty well.

I then turn the skirt inside out and sewed up the lining side seams and self side seams separately. On the self fabric I created foe flat fell seams which you can see in the picture below (the double straight line at the center back of the self fabric). I also top stitched the pockets. Unfortunately the top stitching is lost in the print but it makes me happy to know it's there.

I only cut one waistband and one facing, as originally instructed, and sandwiched the two skirt layers between them. I added my own label and the beautiful Liberty label that came with the fabric to the waistband facing. I also attached 5 belt loops to the skirt using the instructions from Tim's Jedediah shorts. Again the belt loops get a bit lost in the fabric, but I know that they're there!

I attached gold button I got in an op-shop bag-o-buttons-bargain. I regret not interfacing the waistband, in addition to the facing, to provide some extra structure. but otherwise I'm really happy with it.

I originally wanted to keep the lining and self fabric as separate skirt layers (apart from the fly) and thought I would hem the two skirts separately. The hem is created by folding 3/8"twice. To keep a teeny tiny bit more length I decided to fold both skirt 3/8 just once and hem them together. I'm not sure this was the best decision as if either fabric stretches it will bulge at the hem. I could always re-hem it later.

Overall, I'm really happy with how the skirt turned out and I'm glad I made something that I will wear often and can be proud of, rather than spending more money on something mass produced. Sewing with the liberty fabric was a dream. I love the feel of the silky soft cord. I hope and pray I can justify further purchases of Liberty fabric some time in the near future. 

Finally, Just three days left for a chance to win a Bluegingerdoll Billie Jean Dress Pattern. Go check it out! 

Planning A Liberty Cord Moss Mini

I've been eyeing off this Gorman Secret Garden Skirt for an age. A few weeks ago there was a 60% off sale but I still couldn't convince myself to  buy it! Why? Well the awesome Libertyesque fabric is identical to that  on my Gorman Secret Garden dress (go figure!) and the skirt reminds me too much of a Grainline Studio Moss Mini. Epiphany: what I really wanted was to make a Liberty cord Moss mini.


 

Source: Gorman Secret Garden Skirt http://www.gormanshop.com.au/ 

If anyone has any tips for buying Liberty cord in Australia please let me know. I ended up purchasing Liberty Rossmore Cord - LRC03542256C - Lesleys from Sew Box in the UK. It was on sale and I bought the absolute minimum metreage I thought I could get away with (1m), so it only cost me $52 (AUS), shipping included. I'm a little stressed the nap will mean I should have bought more fabric. I hope it will be enough. The fabric arrived to my door within 7 days of purchase, so quick! It is ABSOLUTLEY beautiful. I've never used, or even touched, Liberty needlecord before and I was a little surprised at just how silky, drapey and thin it is. It would make the perfect Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber Jacket!

Given my history with the Grainline Studio Moss Skirt I know to cut a size 8. Unlike my denim Moss skirt, I want this version to be super mini so I'll leave off the hem band. I have limited fabric so I might need to cut all facings and innards in an alternate fabric, but I hope to have enough fabric left over to create belt loops. I plan to use the same process I learnt making Tim's Jedediah Shorts to add the loops. I will also need to line or underline the skirt to give it a bit more structure. I will probably go with a dark sturdy fabric perhaps with some silkiness so I can wear it with thick tights in winter. Any suggestions? I really hope I can do this beautiful fabric justice.

I enjoy writing about sewing plans and progress as well as finished products. My aim for this blog was to write about my "learning to sew journey" not just the Ta-Da! pictures. I really enjoy reading about others sewing plants, too. I would love to know if others find progress/planning posts interesting, useful or a complete bore?