Sewing Tid Bits

The last couple of weeks I've been sewing lots of small pieces off and on so I thought I might share a few photo's. I know this isn't the most interesting of posts but I like to record most of my creations as a bit of a sewing diary.

1. I made a wonderful friend a Sorbetto top and Madeleine bloomers PJ set. I wasn't sure about what to make her and finally decided the night before her birthday that PJ's were on the agenda. The next day I sewed like crazy and even threaded the leg opening ribbon on the train on the way to birthday dinner. I only managed to get a photo of the top. I made them out of a Rayon fabric which I love! Might have to buy some more for myself. Check out the post on my own PJs.

2. I've been getting into pattern testing quite a bit lately. I really enjoy the small insight you get into the pattern development process and stages. I'll share more about what I've been sewing and the new patterns soon.

3. My sister made a last minute request for a pig costume for my nephew J's fairy tale dress up at school. He went as the big bad pig. I used the School Boy Vest by Sew Much Ado. I omitted anything fancy (back ties, pockets) and extended the back to have 'tux tails' and a sewed on a piggy tail. My sister bought me a fat pipe-cleaner for the tail which I encased in fabric, sewed on, and twirled. For more info on the Schoolboy Vest check out my full post.

4. I've also been sewing more Measure Twice Cut Once Georgiana Knickers. I've even started using some pretty trim! I made these knickers from Anna's Rigel (will post soon) and my Alma blouse left overs. I think that's enough knickers until I buy and try out the Charlotte Knickers (fuller brief).

And that's about it for now. Next up I'd like to try the New York Cape and a Gertie Blouse.

I Sewed Knickers!

Measure Twice Cut Once just released their first collection of home sewing patterns. I've been eagerly awaiting them, not knowing what they'd be or how'd they look, but excited for a cyber buddy to take this step. Turns out that they're knickers! In fact, it's 6 different knicker patterns, from shorties to skimpies. This is yet another post where I wont be modeling, for which we can all be glad!

(source)

I was keen to lend my support and wanted to buy a pattern immediately but first checked whether they were suitable for woven fabric as my machine eats knits for fun (sewing Gods PLEASE bring me a serger!). Most pairs are suitable for wovens so I snapped up the Georgiana Knickers (bikini brief). These knickers were the quickest PDF pattern I've EVER put together and cut out. Its just four pages! From cutting the fabric to finishing your knickers I reckon it took just an hour or so. It's so satisfying to make up a pattern so quickly. I can see myself putting aside scraps and making up a couple of pairs a month for an ongoing supply of pretty knickers.

The details: For my first pair I cut a size 14 out of bunny viscose (scraps from my PJ set). I found the instructions clear but a little brief at certain points. There was good details on finishing techniques and sewing your knickers with a serger Vs sewing machine, but I found the drawings and the written instructions a little confusing when attaching the knit gusset and sewing the crotch seam. Unfortunately that's the first step so its not intuitive what to do.

For my first pair I ended up improvising. I sewed the knicker front and back together at the crotch and then attached the gusset separately. I found the waist band elastic WAY too loose but couldn't be stuffed with all that unpicking so cut and took in the sides for a quick fix. A good tip to get the right elastic measurement is to measure a much loved pair of RTW underwear. I did this for the leg openings and they turned out perfect first time.

After some online support from the designer I got my head around the gusset/crotch seam insertion. I also cut up an old pair of knickers to take a closer look and have a visual guide in front of me. Maybe it's just me, but the images in the instructions totally confused me and led me in the wrong direction.

1. Sew the the knicker together wrong side facing at the crotch seam with the gusset right side facing down on the bum piece. 
2. Once this seam is sewn and you lay your knicker out you should have an inner seam with the gusset right side facing the wrong side on the knicker backside. 
3. Flip the gusset toward the front of the knickers. It should now be right side facing up. Stitch the gusset down about 1cm from the seam. The sides of the gusset are later sewn into the elastic leg openings

I started making a second pair (not pictured) and got the gusset perfect but had trouble with the elastic insertion (my error!). Finally, my third pair came together perfectly! After noticing how big my first pair were around the waist I cut the waist to a 12 but left the crotch length and covering a 14. This pair are super comfy with good coverage and crotch length. Now that I've got the sizing and gusset insertion just right I can see myself making many more pairs! I've already cut two more pairs that are just waiting on a store run for some more 1/4"elastic.

I made my second pair out of cotton lawn left over from the Sorbettos I made my sister and I. I love to wear matching underwear and bras. Well, now I can wear matching knickers and tops! I'm so glad I persisted with these knickers. I can see many many more in my future. Time to break out the trimmings and ribbons! This just put a whole knew meaning to the upcoming Me-Made-May! Ok, that's enough knicker talk.