Blue Merino Coppelia Cardi

My pink and black Papercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigans have got to be some of the most worn garments in my cupboard. I wear cropped cardigans a lot and their neutral tones are perfect for just about every occasion. Unfortunately my pink merino cardi has a few holes (which I'll sew up) and the cheap black fabric has pilled.

I bought some ribbed navy merino from The Cloth Shop with plans to sew another Coppelia in the hopes that more will mean extending the life of all of them. This fabric is a gorgeous colour, lightweight and stretchy. In fact it may be a little too stretchy, lacking the recovery needed for a tight fitting wrap around cardi. I'm just going to have to be extra careful not to stretch it out.

I once again made a size XS upped bodice/Sm waist. While it is cropped, this pattern still uses up quite a bit of fabric with the long wrap around ties and front bodice ribbing.  

I made the cardi almost completely on my overlocker. I following the instructions with two exceptions: 1) I didn't leave a space in the bodice side seams to pull the wrap ties through as I never use the hole on my pink cardi. 2) I attached the hem wrap ties differently so as to avoid having to use the sewing machine as much as possible. I pinned and sewed the ties wrong sides out after folding the cardi inside the ties as much as possible. I left a small gap at the centre back to pull the cardi right side out and attached this section using the sewing machine. It's a bit difficult to explain, but Sophie has a photo tutorial which shows something very similar (steps 6,7,8).

Nothing more to say, other than that I'm glad to add another Coppelia Cardy to my wardrobe and there's always room for more. I couldn't be more in love with this pattern and absolutely recommend it to others who like cropped cardigans. 

Outfitted In Knits: Moneta & Coppelia

When Colette Patterns released new knit patterns I thought they were lovely, but not for me. I have the Teach Me Fashion Draped Skirt (see here) which is easily modifiable, so no need for Mabel. The Moneta is a pretty, gathered skirt and fitted bodice, knit dress with some really cute collar options. I didn't jump on it either. I don't find knit dresses flattering on me (also the reason I haven't bought any other knit dress patterns). But the blogging world wore me down. There are only so many amazing Moneta's on women of all different shapes and sizes you can see before you have to give it a go, no?  I gave in and bought Moneta (and the Negroni shirt, eek!) from Indie Stitches.

I bought this blush pink striped Alannah Hill knit from Clear it last week. It is beautiful, but I got it cheap and it's probably a bit pale for me so I was happy to use it for my first Moneta. For my first attempt I decided on Version 1 (lined) but without the pretty collar. The fabric recommendation for the main fabric is 2.5m, but I only bought 1m. It was a very tight squeeze and I had to include a centre back seam in the skirt. But, I made it fit! 

The fabric is sheer and very lightweight so lining was a must. I used cream cotton knit. Unfortunately I only had enough to line the bodice. The instruction booklet only explains how to join the bodice to the lining at the neckline for the collared version. Instead, I just sandwiched the two bodice pieces right sides facing and serged around the neckline, turned right sides out and pressed.

The instructions for sewing the lining and shell together at the arm holes were different to anything I've ever done before. Because of this I found them a little confusing. Thankfully Colette Patterns have a helpful video tutorial showing the steps clearly. It is a fiddly technique but works fine.

I cut a size small grading out to a medium at the waist. I made no fit adjustments on this version. I think the fit is ok. There is some draping at the centre front neckline which I could fold out of the pattern for any future version.While the fit is ok, I don't feel great in this version of Moneta. I will have to make another version in a thicker knit before I rule knit dress out of my wardrobe forever-more. 

I recently set aside some sheer black knit for another Papercut patterns Coppelia Cardy. I thought the black wrap cardy would be the perfect accompaniment for Moneta during the winter months. I made this Coppelia exactly the same as my first, except that I cut a straight XS. The fabric is silky soft. Flattering or not, this outfit is darn comfy!

I'm really happy with my investment in the slightly more expensive Papercut Patterns. Of the three patterns I own, I've made them all multiple times. The Coppelia and Ensis are great basic knit shapes and their patterns feel really 'me'. I will definitely be buying more and look forward to future pattern releases.

(More!) Papercut Paterns: Ensis Tee

I just can't get enough Papercut Patterns! You're probably bored silly of my Ensis Tee's and Coppelia Cardigans. I decided I'd post about the Ensis Tee again as this version turned out so dramatically different to my first.

This time I made variation 2 (curved hem) but added the sleeve cuffs from variation one. Again I cut a straight XS with no changes to the pattern and once again it sewed up like a dream on my overlocker. The fabric I used was the left over pink lightweight merino from my wrap coppelia cardy and matching blue merino. This fabric is almost as stretchy (imo) as what I used for my first Ensis Tee. However the fabric I used for the first is thinly ribbed, heavier weight and is much slouchier (technical term), it kind of wants to stretch just due to its own weight. While the pink and blue lightweight merino has great recovery.

It might be difficult to see but my first Ensis Tee fits like a jumper should, with plenty of room for layers underneath. While my new Ensis fits much more like a long sleeve Tee. Something I would wear as a layer rather than an outer garment.

I love this version just as much as my first, but think it's amazing that a single pattern with just a change in fabric can create two garments which form very different parts of my wardrobe.

Thanks very much to Jess for taking some quick photos during a work break.

 

Papercut Patterns: Coppelia Cardy Version 2

After making up my beloved my Pink ballet wrap Pappercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigan I jumped straight into making the newly released longer faux wrap version.

 

 

I had ample wrap overlap in my first version so decided to grade my pattern pieces back down to a straight XS. I used the left over grey merino from my Ensis Tee. Once again  I sewed the pattern with only (almost) my overlocker and once again it came together like a dream. It was a super quick make, perhaps even quicker than the wrap version as the bottom cuff goes on a bit simpler. Just one thing slowed me down.

 

After sewing up the side seams and trying on I noticed the front wrap pieces were WAY too roomy. They sort of draped down across my chest rather than fitting around my chest. I'd already overlocked the edges - ugh! I sort seam ripped sort of cut open the seams from the bottom to just above where the wrap pieces finish (about waist height). I pulled the front bodice pieces tight, only at the short wrap sides, not at the long side, and basted the sides to see if the fit was better. As you can see in the above photo I graded the shorter wrap side out by about 1/2" at the bottom to about 1.5" at the top of the wrap. This is after already loosing some width from overlocking and seam ripping. After deciding I was happy on the fit I cut off the excess fabric and overlocked the side seams once more.

 

I like the resulting fit, but it is still quite slouchy. I don't mind in this instance as my merino is quite drapey and slouchy itself. Next time I will probably cut the pattern pieces down before cutting into my fabric. I definitely recommend basting the side seams (at least from the waist down) and checking the front bodice fit before stitching/overlocking.

 

I'm super happy with this jumper and I know I'll get a heap of wear out of it. Today is my third day in a row wearing coppelia cardy's. I especially love how not-homemade the wrap collar, hem and cuffs look and feel. Also, I'm going to state the obvious and say that sewing with Merino has been seriously delightful. And wearing it even better! I can see myself regularly buying up a few different shades when ever I need/want a new jumper or cardy.

 

Thanks to Tim for quickly taking these photo before work. Please excuse my translucent face caused by morning light.

Papercut Patterns: Ensis Tee

After declaring my love for Papercut Patterns in general, and the Coppelia Cardy specifically, I jumped straight in to the Ensis Tee.

I cut a straight size XS in variation 1. I used a grey Merino for the bottom half and a bright purple for the top half. Both picked up in the Fabric Store sale. The purple has a slightly softer drape and is a bit stretchier.

I followed the instructions to a tee (except for using my overlocker instead of the sewing machine) and they were perfection. This is a ridiculously simple make, with so much potential for hacking, style and colour variations.

Really not much more to say about this one. I love how it turned out and I can see myself making a hole heaps of these jumpers. I'm really glad I made the straight XS. The S would have just been to roomy. My only complaint is that the purple stretches out of shape really quickly so I probably should have reinforced the shoulders with some clear elastic of stabilzer. I have a heap of the purple left so I'll be sure to remember this when I next use it.  I cut another Ensis and Coppelia this arvo in the other variations and I cant wait to get a chance to sew them up.  

Papercut Patterns: Coppelia Cardigan

I'm still riding the knits wave, and I'm loving it more and more! A noticeable gap in my wardrobe (me-made or bought) is cardigans and jumpers. I've been eyeing off Papercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigan and Ensis Tee for ages and then the stars aligned. Papercut Patterns released a PDF version of the Coppelia Cardy, meaning I didn't have to wait for the posty and the pattern was considerably cheaper! In addition, The Fabric Store had a massive $20 Merino wool sale; I bought 7 metres. I also splurged and bought the Ensis Tee pattern in store so I didn't have to wait for the posty to deliver from NZ. It was also $1 cheaper  in store and I needed all the help I could get after buying 7 metres of Merino.

I got straight into making a Coppelia cardy (version 1) from a light pink light weight Merino. Many have mentioned the looser fit of Papercut Patterns so I erred on the side of tight. I graded between and XS at the chest and shoulders and a S at the waist.

There really isn't much to say about this make, the cardy came together incredibly quickly and without issue. I sewed all seams using my overlocker except for some top stitching on the bottom wrap tie. The instructions are spot on and the diagrams perfect. My experience of sewing with Papercut Patterns here and with my Rigel Bomber Jackets (1, 2) has been lovely. I cant recommended these patterns enough and I can't wait to get my hands on more of them.

I love how my cardy turned out. It's perfect for wearing with my fit and flare dresses and high waisted skirts. Also, I think the fit is absolutely spot on! It's also incredibly warm, soft and comfortable. What more could you ask for?

Pappercut have also just revised the pattern to include a second variation which is a longer jumper with a faux front wrap. I cant wait to dip into my Merino again to make up this jumper version along with a few Ensis Tee's. I'll be back with more knit makes soon. I  have a few woven plans as well, but the satisfaction you get from a quick knit make is winning me over at the moment. Not to mention the gaps these makes are filling in my wardrobe.  Is anyone else going on a knit bender?

                 

Anna's Lined Rigel Bomber (Take 2)

*Due to bloglovin' issues I've republished this post. Sorry if this is a repeat for anyone*

I've been enjoying sewing gifts for friends birthdays this year. My Friend Anna, who just turned 25, is super enthusiastic about my sewing. In particular my Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber Jacket, so I suggested I make her one for her birthday. Now I've already posted about the Rigel bomber after making my own version so I wont blab on. But I thought I'd take the opportunity to talk about the lining process.

I had bought the cream and punk novelty viscose from Darn Cheap Fabrics with Anna in mind and once we decided on the Rigel I went looking for something appropriate for the main fabric. I sent An pics of 8-10 possible fabrics, including cottons, linen, silks & polyesters, for her final say. My two favorites happened to be the one she picked (a black and white pineapple quilting cotton) and the metallic linen the fabric tragic just made into pants(!). I think I need to go back to DarnCheap and get more of both just for me! I bought some mustard ribbing from the ClothShop to brighten up the jacket. 

Now to the construction. I wanted to line Anna's Rigel but wasn't sure how to go about it. Other bloggers seemed to have tackled it a few different ways but I was looking for the simplest (least likely to fudge it up), most logical way which used little to no hand stitching. 

I knew that I wanted an enclosed seam where the jacket meets the waist ribbing but needn't bother for the others as they weren't visible. The wrist ribbing seam will never be exposed (except here) and the seam around the neck ribbing and zipper is hidden under the facing. Heres what I did:

1. I cut  two versions of all jacket pieces (one in pineapples and one in viscose) except for the facing & pocket pieces (which I cut once out of Pineapples) and the ribbing (cut once).

2. Made the jacket up to the point before ribbing on both the main and lining pieces. Obviously only put pockets in the main jacket.
3. I attached the the ribbing to the neckband and wrist holes of the main jacket at this point although you could do it at step 5 in one single step rather than two.
4. Attached waist ribbing by sandwiching it right sides out between the main and lining fabric right side in. Then you'll have something that looks like below. To attach the ribbing around the corners at the centre front you need to clip into the corner of the main and lining fabric, but not the ribbing, press the SA of each under separately and top stitch down with the ribbing sandwiched between the fabric.

5. Pin the lining wrong sides together around the neck band and bodice front and sew as normal. see below. 

6. Attach the lining to cuff again as normal. At the end point the cuffs will be the only exposed seam you are left with.

7. Attach the facing to the front bodice and neck band as instructed. I then pressed the edge of the facing under .5", pinned it to the jacket and edge stitched it down. This covers all exposed seems around the neckband and front bodice. If adding a label, sew it on before stitching the facing down.  

8. Enjoy your beautiful and easily lined jacket!
Note, these instructions sound a little confusing but I found the process really logical. I hope it works for others as well.

I loved how the jacket turned out and was a little sad to let it go! So I took a few happy snaps of myself in it as a reminder of the times we had together. I will definitely be making myself another lined version for winter. I'd also like to try and heighten the neckband or even try a different pattern.  

Happy belated birthday, An! I hope you get lots of wear out of your jacket. Here's An in her jacket. Doesn't she look fantastic?!

Anna's Lined Rigel Bomber

I've been enjoying sewing gifts for friends birthdays this year. My Friend Anna, who just turned 25, is super enthusiastic about my sewing. In particular my Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber Jacket, so I suggested I make her one for her birthday. Now I've already posted about the Rigel bomber after making my own version so I wont blab on. But I thought I'd take the opportunity to talk about the lining process.

I had bought the cream and punk novelty viscose from Darn Cheap Fabrics with Anna in mind and once we decided on the Rigel I went looking for something appropriate for the main fabric. I sent An pics of 8-10 possible fabrics, including cottons, linen, silks & polyesters, for her final say. My two favorites happened to be the one she picked (a black and white pineapple quilting cotton) and the metallic linen the fabric tragic just made into pants(!). I think I need to go back to DarnCheap and get more of both just for me! I bought some mustard ribbing from the ClothShop to brighten up the jacket. 

Now to the construction. I wanted to line Anna's Rigel but wasn't sure how to go about it. Other bloggers seemed to have tackled it a few different ways but I was looking for the simplest (least likely to fudge it up), most logical way which used little to no hand stitching. 

I knew that I wanted an enclosed seam where the jacket meets the waist ribbing but needn't bother for the others as they weren't visible. The wrist ribbing seam will never be exposed (except here) and the seam around the neck ribbing and zipper is hidden under the facing. Heres what I did:

1. I cut  two versions of all jacket pieces (one in pineapples and one in viscose) except for the facing & pocket pieces (which I cut once out of Pineapples) and the ribbing (cut once).

2. Made the jacket up to the point before ribbing on both the main and lining pieces. Obviously only put pockets in the main jacket.
3. I attached the the ribbing to the neckband and wrist holes of the main jacket at this point although you could do it at step 5 in one single step rather than two.
4. Attached waist ribbing by sandwiching it right sides out between the main and lining fabric right side in. Then you'll have something that looks like below. To attach the ribbing around the corners at the centre front you need to clip into the corner of the main and lining fabric, but not the ribbing, press the SA of each under separately and top stitch down with the ribbing sandwiched between the fabric.

5. Pin the lining wrong sides together around the neck band and bodice front and sew as normal. see below. 

6. Attach the lining to cuff again as normal. At the end point the cuffs will be the only exposed seam you are left with.

7. Attach the facing to the front bodice and neck band as instructed. I then pressed the edge of the facing under .5", pinned it to the jacket and edge stitched it down. This covers all exposed seems around the neckband and front bodice. If adding a label, sew it on before stitching the facing down.  

8. Enjoy your beautiful and easily lined jacket!
Note, these instructions sound a little confusing but I found the process really logical. I hope it works for others as well.

I loved how the jacket turned out and was a little sad to let it go! So I took a few happy snaps of myself in it as a reminder of the times we had together. I will definitely be making myself another lined version for winter. I'd also like to try and heighten the neckband or even try a different pattern.  

Happy belated birthday, An! I hope you get lots of wear out of your jacket. Here's An in the jacket. Doesn't She look fantastic?!

Pink Floral Rigel Bomber Jacket

The Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber Jacket is amazing! My favorites from other bloggers include The Quirky Peach's Floral bomber and Cirque Du Bebe Scandavian polka dot bomber. It seems like the rigel has been slow to infiltrate the sewing / blogging world. I think, like me, many people are tempted by it and planning to make a version up eventually but just a little nervous about the welt pockets and lack of lining. Thanks to peer pressure on Instagram I got my act together. I bought this fun pink floral twill (from Rathdown Ramnants and Fabrics) for a Grainline Studio Moss Skirt, but my lovely Instagram friends overruled me and it was decided that this fabric would become a Rigel Bomber.

The Papercut Patterns packaging was so beautiful and it inspired me to get started straight away. I decided to make up version 1 as I think version 2 would only work in a more subtle fabric. I cut a size XS bust grading to a S waist and hips which matched my measurements. It ended up quite big from my waist down and next time I'll cut a straight XS.  I really like the fit in the front but you can see in the photo below how much excess fabric in the back there is.

To begin with I cut out the main bodice and sleeve pieces as I hadn't completely decided whether I would end up lining the jackets and potentially changing my mind about the most appropriate ribbing. I know others have lined their jacket or wish they had. My jacket insides are far from perfect but I was happy enough not to bother with lining. I used an old men's shirt for the pockets and while I would have liked to bias bind the edges I couldn't be bothered thinking through how to do it. I did bind the edges on the facing to give it a smooth finish. 

The construction of the jacket was relatively easy once I got my head around the instructions. The welt pockets went in without trouble. I adore the open ended zipper. It's so much easier to insert than regular zippers (in my opinion) and it looks so professional! The navy ribbing was easy to use but I'm not in love with how it looks. Perhaps next time I'd use a thick regular knit instead. I increased the cuff length by 2" (1" once folded in half) and my arms aren't especially long. I didn't end up top stitching or tacking the facing down and it moves around a little so I'll have to go back and do this when I get a chance.

 
Overall I really like the way the jacket turned out! I love the fabric I chose but it is a little stiff. Hopefully it will loosen up with time. This fabric would still make a really fun Moss mini. I'm definitely tempted, but my planned Liberty Moss mini is the priority for now. This jacket is very different to anything else I own and will take some time to integrate into my wardrobe. So far I've styled it with Jeans and a simple tank. As it's summer I don't think it will get much wear for a few months. These photos were taken at 9am this morning under a shady tree and it was stinkin' hot!

I will make another version for winter later in the year. For my second bomber I plan to make a lined version in a more subtle grey or navy thick but soft fabric, perhaps a knit or wool. I want it to be the jacket I reach for each day and live in on cool winter weekends. Let's see how I get on.