Tim's Birthday shirt 2015

It's been a couple months between posts. I haven't been sewing much and when I have been sewing I haven't felt like blogging. I've really enjoyed a break for Instagram, blog reading and my sewing-related social networking. But, with the weather warming up, I'm getting ready for some spring/summer sewing. In the meantime, some catch up posts with average (at best!) photos.

In August last year I made my first men's shirt for Tim's birthday; a Colette Patterns Negroni shirt. I made him another for his birthday this year, which marked the fifth shirt made in the last 12 months. All of his shirts are in high rotation and I love rushing out of the house each work morning realising we're both wearing clothes I've made us.

I bought this blue and white small gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti earlier in the year. I love the italian cotton shirting Tessuti have been stocking and look forward to buying more when they receive more stock. The fabric is soft with a slight sheen and it presses really well. For the contrasting sleeve plackets, under collar, and inner collar band I used salvageable fabric from one of Tim's worn out shirts. I also reused all the buttons of the old shirt.

Why yes, that is my finger at the bottom of the photo...

I was hoping to make a long sleeved version of the Simplicity 1544 I'd made Tim this summer, which has a nice traditional collar and button placket. However, Tim prefers the fit through the body of the Negroni shirt, which means I have to stick with my Negroni Archer Shirt pattern mash up to get all the shirt features his likes. For details on mash up process see my previous posts: 1, 2.

Before I attached the buttons

I didn't do anything differently this time around. I double interfaced the collar to make it extra crisp. I overlocked the edges and sewed the S/A to one side to create faux flat fell seams. for some reason this verson seems a little tighter around Tims under arms, but it doesn't bother him.  The one main difference with this shirt is the amazing fabric which, I think, makes it look much more professional.

Tim loves his new shirt and wore it the day of his birthday. We started the day off well, filling our bellies with with nutella french brioche before heading off to work. Delicious! 

Simplicity 1544: Short Sleeve Shirt for Tim

After making Tim three Negroni's, two of which I hacked to include a collar stand and button plackets, it was time to try a different pattern. Hopefully one that "had it all".

The Simplicity 1544 shirt has pockets, back yokes, collar and stand, button plackets and placket cuffs. But I'd bought some gorgeous shirting from Tessuti with a short sleeves shirt in mind so I needed to make a shorter sleeve. Unsurprisingly, creating a short sleeve is 100% easier than hacking button plackets and collar bands etc. Phew! I simply measured the Negroni short sleeve and marked it on the Simplicity sleeve pattern.

I made a muslin from some yucky poly striped fabric that made Tim look like he stole the Banana's In Pajamas shirt. This was my first time making a muslin that I didn't hope to make wearable. It was incredibly liberating being able to make something up so fast and with so little care for the finishing's. No finished seams, clipped curves, or pretty top stitching here. It took me just 45 minutes to sew it up! 

From the muslin we decided that the fit was fine except for needing to take a small amount of width from the sleeve and shortening it a lot. I took 4" off the Negroni sleeve length, created a 1" hem, and then folded it outward 1" and tacked it down to create a cuff look. I also took 1/4" from the sleeve width grading to nothing at the shoulders. The only other changes I made were to omit the yoke tab, and additional country style top stitching.

The fit of this shirt is definitely a looser around the torso than the Negroni Shirts but that's fine for casual summer shirt. For a more formal or business wear shirt you could easily add some back darts where most of the excess room is. Next time I make the shirt, probably a long sleeve, I'll fold out a little more width in the sleeves as well.

The instructions were reasonably clear and easy to follow. There's no suggestion to flat fell the seams. Instead the instructions have you overclock the edges of the shoulder seams and then turn them inside for top stitching. I also did this down the sleeve and side seams.  

The collar stand and collar are sewn on very similar to the Archer shirt, but the button bands are both wide separate pattern pieces that are interfaced, attached to the body,  folded inwards and then top stitched down. The hem is created before the button band and then the band bottoms are sewn wrong sides out and then turned inwards so that they are even with the hem. I quite liked this process but they do create very thick button bands.

I absolutely loved working with this fabric. It was sturdy and forgiving. The button holes and top stitching went in like a dream. Summer is officially over but I hope we have a few warm days left so that Tim has the chance to wear his new shirt and I can get some more wear out of all the dresses!

Another Shirt For Tim: Negroni Archer Hack #2

Another shirt for Tim. I cut this one out ages ago after seeing a man on a tram wearing a similar black and white gingham contrast shirt.

I again used my hacked Negroni Archer pattern pieces. See this post for more details on that. I made one further mod by taking out a further 1/2"of fabric from the width of each sleeve and the fit is better in this shirt than the previous versions.

I made a few mistakes at the time of cutting out. I some how cut the front bodice pieces with a thinner centre front. To solve this issue I used tiny seam allowances and cut slightly wider button plackets. Thankfully, it doesnt seem to have affected the fit. 

When attaching the collar I found that the collar stand was a good half an inch larger than it should have been. I had absolutely no spare fabric so I eased those collar stands in like crazy. You can't really tell from the outside but the centre back inside is a mess! By this time I considered binning the shirt but Tim convinced me that some of his RTW shirts have wrinkly collar stands from excess fabric and that it really didn't look that bad.

I used the contrasting fabric for the back yoke, inner collar stand, button placket, cuff placket and cuff facings. Because this shirt was looking to be on the dodgy side I simply faux felled the seams by sewing the seam allowance, overlocking the edges and top stitching them to one side at the side and sleeve seams.  I don't regret this, it still looks nice inside and out. 

The final shirt fit great and you can't see any of my terrible mistakes. The fabric contrast is really fun but still professional enough for work.

The Negroni bodice really fits Tim very well but I'm keen to try other shirt patterns that don't require as much hacking to get the look he's after. Next up is a Simplicity 1544 with short sleeves. I've even gone to the effort of making a muslin. I have some gorgeous Tessuti shirting I'm going to use for the real thing and after that I might take a little break from men's shirt making.

Spotty Jed's and Pooch Darcy Boxers

First up in blogging Christmas gifts are Tim's Jed's and Darcy Shorts.

I made a pair of Thread Theory Jedediah Shorts for Tim last November and he wears them all the time. As a part of his Christmas gift I decided to make another pair, this time from some navy and white spotty drill from Spotlight. I left sewing Tim's gifts until I'd finished sewing for my nieces, nephews and others. I was putting these shorts off as they were quite a big project last November. Turns out, after another year of sewing experience they were relatively simple and quick!

I made up size 32 again and they fit great. I followed the instructions exactly except for the bias binding the seams. I made the binding, but piked out deciding that the overlocker looked neater than the bias. For this version I rolled up the hem and sewed them down at the side seams. Even with the rolled hem I cut 2" of the shorts. I need to remember to make this change to the pattern next time so as not to waist the fabric.

This time around I took the time to add the decorational stitching on the back pocket, although you can't really see it, and I also used this method to reinforce the pocket and hide all raw seams. My only other change was to fold under the waistband seam allowance and stitch in the ditch rather than leaving the bound edge exposed.

The instructions are reasonably good and where they lack the sew along holds your hand. Two things I love about this pattern/instructions are the fly insertion instruction and also the way the waist band centre front is attached. The instructions really simplify the methods and provide a very professional look I think. Tim wore these Christmas day and looked fabulous in them if I do say so myself!

I also made up the Measure Twice Cut Once Darcy Shorts for some PJ shorts for Tim. They have a functional button fly and an exposed waistband. I cut a size large which looked ginormous before adding the waistband but the fit turned out perfect.  I made them from some Dog cotton from Spotlight and they are pretty darn cute. 

The instructions have a women's and a men's variation. I followed the Men's in addition to adding 7cm of length to each short leg so that the hems hit just above the knees. The instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. However the elastic length and button placement is left for you to decide. Tim really likes these Jammie shorts and they are perfect for out summer nights. 

Negroni 2: A Pattern Hack

Last month I made Tim a muslin Colette Patterns Negroni Shirt for his birthday with the promise of making more in the future. He wears his shirt to work regularly but had a few suggestions for improvements. Tim requested: slimmer cut sleeves; a traditional button band and placket rather than shirt front facings; a stiffer collar with a collar stand.

I could have tried a different pattern, but they often lacked other must haves (e.g. back yoke, contrasting cuff placket, slim fit). So, in attempts to get the best of all worlds I spliced together the Negroni Pattern with my beloved Archer shirt pattern (made here and here). On comparing the sizing of the Tim's store bought shirts with my Archers I found that the width of the collar and collar stand was pretty much the same, but the length of the collar/stand/neckline would need to be increased. Same goes for the button plackets. 

Note: Peter has done some tutorials on adapting the Negroni pattern for a traditional placket and collar, but of course I didn't realise until after making the shirt.
So, here what I did:
- Photo copied Archer collar and stand patterns. Added about 1/2" to each piece at the fold/centre line. Thus providing 1" more neck room.
- The Archer pattern has 1/2" seams allowances, Negroni has 5/8". Before attaching the collar stand I trimmed down the Negroni neckline by 1/8".
- I interfaced both sides of the collar and collar stand for a stiffer collar. Although I really need to buy some shirt crisp interfacing.
- I compared the Negroni shirt front to the archer shirt front. If you line up the button placement line on either pattern it's easy to see where you should add width for the right side (where the button placket is folded over) and remove width for the left side ( where you attach the button placket). It's important to consider: 1) women's shirts button up the opposite way to men's; 2) remember to use 1/2" seams allowances or add 1/8"to the right side of the shirt and the contrasting button placket; 3) add length to the button placket pieces as the shirt is much longer than the archer pattern.
- Trimmed down sleeves by 1/2". I cut and overlapped the pattern by 1/4" in two places on each sleeve. I also decreased the width of the cuffs pleat to allow for this.

The changes worked out even better than I expected (it was a gamble cutting straight into the 'good' fabirc). I particularly prefer the crispness of the button placket on this version compared to the Negroni pattern. Next time I will take more width out of the sleeves as they are still baggy. Luckily this is a casual shirt, so Tim will wear it most often with the sleeves rolled up anyway. I'd also shorten the shirt slightly. Unfortunately I didn't notice on the first version as it's always tucked into work pants.

I made Tim's shirt out of two gorgeous linens from Tessuti. The check is Heart On Sleeve and the solid is Indigo flip (I think). The fabric was amazing to sew with and I was pleased with my pattern matching efforts on the side seams and centre front. Sadly, I only have a small amount of the check left so I wont be able to make a matching top for myself. 

Tim's Birthday Negroni Shirt & Moose PJs

For Tim's birthday I offered to make him a shirt. I liked the idea of making a Colette Patterns Negroni as I knew the instructions would be beginner friendly for my first men's shirt attempt. I bought the pattern from Indie Stitches.

 

 

My biggest issue was finding suitable fabric. Tim has a lot of checked and striped shirts so I wanted something a little different to that. Finding shirting fabric for men that isn't just white or pastel stripes is difficult, imo. In the end we decided I'd make one out of Robert Kaufman spotted chambray in indigo. Of course, I couldn't find a supplier with any stock left so we are waiting for more fabric to come instock.

In the mean time I made a wearable muslin out of same navy and white cotton I used for my sleeveless Archer. Yep, we have matching shirts! I used a light blue and white cotton for the contrasting inner yoke, cuffs, under collar and cuff plackets. I got this fabric and the white shirt buttons from an older shirt of Tim's that had worn thin at the collar.

I cut a size Small in Version A and decided against the pockets and the collar button loop. All exposed seams are French and/or foe fell seamed. I followed the instructions exactly and made no changes to the pattern.

Making Archers shirts (1, 2)  put my in good stead for the Negroni, but there were a few major differences in construction/pattern. The Negroni Shirt has a fantastic cuff button placket! The pattern piece is rather scary but well labelled and surprisingly easy to transform into the gorgeous top stitched button placket. The other major difference between this pattern and Archer is that the Negroni has no collar stand and the entire neckline and shirt opening is faced rather then making button plackets. I think this makes for an even easier/quicker sew. However, I think I prefer the look of a structured crisp collar stand and button plackets. I would like to try a few other men's shirt pattern eventually (e.g. Vogue8759).

The fit is pretty good through the body, narrow but with room to eat. The only change I will make for the real thing (patiently awaiting the fabric...) is to take some width out the sleeves and maybe a 1/2" of length.

In addition to the shirt I made Tim another pair of Simplicity PJs Pants. This pair are made from some lovely flannelette I picked up at the Cloth Shop. I sewed this pair identical to the last.

Work shirts and Moose PJ's  - what a well rounded man of 26 years.  Happy birthday Tim!

Bonus Sew Cheap Pattern Review: Simplicity PJ's

This month I'm posting a bonus sew cheap pattern review. I'm not counting this as one of my challenged 12 as I made it for Tim, not me, and I've actually already made this pattern before. The Simplicity Easy PJ Pants are a freely available multisize pattern for men and women.

Last year I made up a pair for Tim's birthday out of orange and white robot flannelette. They turned out super cute. I cut him a Size M and the fit was good, but we agreed that the waistband sits much higher than necessary. 

This time I again used size M but increased the waist band size. The pattern says to turn down the waist band 1/4"and again 7/8" (total 1&1/8"), sew and insert 1/2"elastic. Instead I turned down the waist band a total of 2": about 3/4" under and then again a 1 &1/4". I also used 1"elastic. This removes some of the excess length in the waist and also creates a more substantial, sturdy waist band. I used brown twill tape from the draw string.  Otherwise I followed the instructions. Except that I sewed up all my seams on an overlocker (Thats right! I bought an overlocker!! More on that another time) barring the hem and waistband. 

I bought this animal flannelette from Spotlight. How freakin' adorable is it? I have a small amount left so I might make myself some PJ shorts or perhaps make PJ pants from nephews. Tim's really pleased with his new PJ pants. I'm not so sure he's pleased with me posting picture of them online...

The pattern instructions are very thorough and, in my opinion, a bit overly wordy. By following the pictures/diagrams you will be happily on your way to sewing yourself some jammies, no need to get bogged down in the text. This pattern is perfect for beginners and also for those wanting to whip up some PJ's quick smart.
  

If you like this post, check out my Sew Cheap: Top Tips,  Sew Cheap: Free Patterns and previous Sew Cheap posts. 

Sewing For Men: Colette Albion Jacket

For the last month or so I've been making quick projects for some instant gratification. I decided I needed a slow and steady make and began the Colette Albion jacket expecting it be a long haul. I showed Tim the pattern a while back; he liked it and asked for a coat version very similar to the one on the cover.  I snapped up the pattern (from Indie Stitches) and hoped to participate in the sew-along and competition but was running out of time after troubles finding the camels wool that Tim wanted (at a reasonable price). I finally decided to give the jacket version a go using cheap heavy navy brushed cotton from GJs discount fabrics. Perfect for #sewbluefebruary.  I planned this version to be a wearable muslin.

Tim's measurements fell between a small and medium, so I cut a medium. The fabric was very easy to cut, sew and press but it molted everywhere and I swear I even had a cough from inhaling its blue dust. The jacket version is unlined. After much debate/thought with Tim and input from the social sewing ladies I used the brushed side of the fabric as the wrong side. If feels almost like wool and is lovely and warm against the skin despite being only one layer of fabric.

I started sewing about two thirds of the way through the sew-along and caught up very quickly. The Albion is a surprisingly quick make and much less complicated than I anticipated. However, there were a few stages where I had some difficultly due to fiddleyness. In particular, sewing and pressing the flatfell seams in the hood was very tricky without a tailors hams. Because I'm inpatient I ended up using the bottom half of a stuffed penguin to help shape the hood. I followed the instructions and only looked at the sew along posts if I needed an in-colour representation of the instructions. This jacket is much less intimidating to make then you'd expect!

The innards of the Jacket version are all bias bound. I used leftover fabric from Tim's Jedediah shorts for the bias and I love the red and blue contrast. The insides look so neat without any exposed seams, but it was a battle sewing over all those layers of heavy cotton and bias when hemming the jacket.

I altered the hood to insert a drawstring and I also inserted a zipper for extra protection from the elements. Both of these adjustments are detailed in the sew-along. I had a hard time deciding on the kind and colour of toggles to use. Tim had the final say and went with tan toggles with light brown leather patches (is there a technical term?). It took me a week from jacket body completion to get the nerve up to sew on the toggle closures. Sewing on the hard leather patches was harder than I imagined, probably the most unnerving part of the hole process.

The final product looks fantastic and I'm really proud of how it turned out. However, the fit isn't perfect. The Jacket is a little boxy around the waist and massive in the arms. But I think this will still be a great jacket for him to throw on in the winter especially on weekends, when we go to the footy and whatnot. Also, the colour really suits the rest of Tim's wardrobe.

I am very excited that I ended up finishing the jacket in time and am able to enter it into the competition. Check out the other amazing entries in the Colette Patterns Flickr pool! There are heaps of female version which are really inspiring! I think I will make myself a slimmer cut version for winter as well. I will make a casual jacket version with a more defined waist, smaller arms and perhaps a colour blocked bodice and yoke/sleeves.