Made in 2018 (Warning: long post!)

Hello to those still following this blog! I haven't blogged since 1 January 2018, so it's probably about time I posted a round-up of my 2018 handmades.
It's a long post! So here's a summary for those after a quick fix: 

2018 was a year of boxy tops and dresses, ruffles (sleeve, back and bum!), and lovely linen fabrics. I had success with a new pants pattern but the second half of the year focused on maternity friendly dresses. Hoping to get back to sewing pants late 2019. Below are some very glamorous selfies taken in the spare bedroom, work toilets and foyer. Enjoy!

1. In Progress...

In addition to a couple of unfinished dresses I'm hoping to get to before the end of summer, we're expecting our first baby due in March 2019! All is well with both baby and I. I haven't been sewing any maternity clothes per se but my love for tent dresses has really come in handy.

2. Black Feather Viscose Tessuti Lois Dress

This Lois Dress was a follow up from my wearable muslin - details here.  I prefer my first version which got a lot of wear last summer. But this black version has been a great option this summer as the floaty skirt still fits over my baby bump and is less sheer than the white version.

3.  Pineapple Ruffle Sleeve Noelle Top

I get so much wear out of my navy spotty ruffle sleeve top made late last year - another version was a no-brainer. I made both tops from a slightly modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern, but those ruffle sleeves are a simple addition to any boxy top pattern. 

This version was meant to be a casual summer vibe -  but I wonder if it's actually pyjama resort wear?

4. Double Weave Linen Cotton Gingham Dress

This dress is another modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern. 

Modifications include: cut width from the Centre front (see previous ruffle sleeve tops for details), sliced the back piece below the underarm for a ruffle back (details in ruffle top version), and lengthened for a mini dress. 

I found the double weave linen cotton blend (bought from The Cloth Shop) too heavy for me, but the dress found a new home with a good friend, and it has since received the love and wear it deserves.

5. 2* Butterick 6182 Box Top

My first Butterick 6182 is a copycat from a display at The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe. After months of eyeballing the fabric pattern combo I made my very own out of this beautiful cotton soon after to be followed by a navy linen/cotton blend.

I followed the pattern as standard - no changes necessary. The sleeve bands and front darts make this pattern a little more interesting and well fitted compared to other boxy tops I've sewn.

I've gotten a lot of wear out of these tops and thankfully they also work well with maternity skirts etc. I particularly love the navy version which has a nice drape.

6. Linen Tessuti Lisa Dress
I made this Tessuti Lisa Dress early 2018 and it got some good wear at the time. But it's been a godsend this past month or two as the weather heats up. There is so much room in the skirt that you almost can't tell I'm pregnant which is a nice change.  

I think the buttons may be cut just low enough to also work as a nursing dress without any modifications. Otherwise, I could lower the curved bodice/skirt seam a little and add an extra button for a great nursing dress/top. 

The pattern comes together well with lovely neat insides. I made the size small. Personally, I think the armscye is a little big with the underarms cut too low. On me, you can spot the side of my bra.  But, that's allowed for more bust room which is helpful at the moment. This version is made from a green/white chambray waxed linen from The Cloth Shop. I will definitely be making this one again.

 7. Black Linen Megan Nielsen Flint Pants

Not much to say as these are my fourth pair of the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants/Shorts. Details on previous versions here. 

As done previously, I've removed the front box pleat and added a double side button rather than one bigger button. I find the double button to be more secure and keeps the waistband from folding down.

 I LOVE this pattern and look forward to squeezing back into my Flints.

8. Denim Persephone Sailor Pants 
The Anna Allen Persephone Sailor Pants & Shorts were my first foray into sewing Jeans and a button fly. To sum up - I think this is a great first jeans pattern for those starting out!

The covered button fly means you can have some fun with your buttons rather than using metal jeans buttons. I went with plastic white and navy striped buttons on the covered fly and a navy sailor button at the waist. Next year I need to conquer metal buttons and hardware. 

I used non-stretch denim and found the fit pretty good but not super comfortable when sitting. Next year I'd be keen to sew up a black stretch denim pair.  

9. In the Folds Peplum Dress

If you haven't already checked out the free In the Folds patterns available on Peppermint Sewing School - Stop and do so immediately! There are a handful of fantastic patterns available, including the Peplum Top. I've sewn the top up twice before - both getting a lot of wear. Given how high the peplum starts the top is maternity friendly if you extend the peplum length. 

I made a dress version out of some gingham linen (also from The Cloth Shop) to get me through a big-bellied summer. I intended to make a size up for a little more bust room - but accidentally went up two sizes making the dress a little too big. But it works for a comfy summer dress and I'm keen to make another slightly smaller version. 

10. Burnt Orange Bum Ruffle Dress

By far my favourite make of 2018! This dress is the very popular Vogue 9237 Back Bum Ruffle Dress sewn in a vibrant medium weight burnt orange linen (Yep - fromt The Cloth Shop). The fabric easily transitions from winter to summer outfits - but I actually prefer it layered up with winter tights, boots and cardigans.

 Ruffles, Pockets, Maternity friendly - what's not to love?

Well actually the armsyce and neckline are way too high and restrictive, but both are an easy fix. I took around 1/2" from the neckline and the underarm. I have summer version in progress in a lighter fabric.

Thanks to those who made it through this giant photo dump. I'm not sure how often I'll blog next year. I mainly use instagram to follow along with the online sewing universe. Hope to see you there!

Happy New Year!

Favourite Things Top: Ruffle Sleeve Noelle

There were several more makes for 2017 that I'll (maybe) blog another time. This is my very last make of 2017. Finished just in time to wear for a relaxing New Years Eve with Tim. Featuring spots, ruffles and navy fabric, this is definitely my "Favourite Things" top!

 

My sister and I saw some fabulous linen tops and dresses with ruffle sleeves being sold at a local market recently. We fell in love, but, as all too common for us, didn't make the purchase and later regretted it. I searched for the designer online and at the same market a month later but haven't come across the tops/dresses again. This top is inspired by the one that got away. 

I started with the Ulooop Noelle Top pattern (sewn previously: V1, V2). The Noelle pattern is an incredibly simple (but effective) design: boxy top, dropped sleeves, no closures, bias bound neckline. My first version was very cropped (with nearly no allowance for then hem) and roomy in the front bodice. For this version I made the following mods: 

- Added 1.5" to length and removed curved front and back hem. 

- Removed 1.25" width from the centre front of front bodice piece. There is still plenty of room to get the top on and off without an added closure. But, the neckline sits more comfortably now and I'm less swamped by the fabric. 

- Used a wide 1.5" hem and included 2" slits at either side seam. 

- Cut 5" (including seam allowance) wide ruffles, twice the length of the sleeve opening. Overlocked and hemmed outer and side edges and attached the ruffle to the sleeve opening.

The fabric is a gorgeous Japanese linen blend (?) from The Cloth Shop. Its a dark navy with lighter shades throughout and an off-white polka dot pattern. This fabric is what my dreams are made of!

I've really happy with how the top turned out, and I feel great in it!  I'd like to make one or two more in block coloured linen fabrics. But, I find it difficult to look past beautiful blues. My motto is, of course, all the things in blue! This makes it difficult to pair tops and bottoms together without looking too matchy matchy. Not to mention, also heavily matching with Tim's navy dominated wardrobe.  Perhaps I'll start slowly with a few white and black items in 2018. 

                                       

Not Birthday Tops: Maya & Noelle

I bought one of my sisters some lovely blue linen to make her a birthday top. We did a few practice tops to find the style and size she wanted. The Maya Top I posted here was trial number one, she wear's the top but it wasn't quite right for the special linen. I got a chance to take a few photos of the Maya top on my sister today. For more details on Maya see here or here.

Trial number two was a modified Noelle Top by Ulooop Patterns. I've sewn this top before and I love the outcome. I again modified the back to have a colour blocked gathered lower back bodice. I also added 6" length front and back for my tall sister who likes her tops quite long. I cut the smallest size (8).

The fabric is left over Tesutti linen (need more!) and some thrift-ed spotty who-knows-what for the back.

I top stitched  1/4" from all the seam lines in navy thread. The Noelle top is designed to be oversized but even so the initial version was just too big. I had to rip out all the top stitching as well as the seams to take the top in an 3/4" at either side grading to nothing at the hem, as well as taking the top up 1cm at the shoulders.

The final product is pretty darn sweet if I do say so myself and hopefully it will get loads of wear. Check out my gorgeous niece wearing her polkadot Made Kid Shorts.

My sister's actual Birthday top is now being sewn and the pattern ins't either the Noelle or the Maya top. Talk about spoilt! I'm currently sewing up a storm for other birthday and Chrissy presents. I was also able to sneak in a dress for my own birthday. I cant wait to get photos and post it later in the month.

Ulooop Noelle Top

For one week Tianfei from Ulooop Patterns was offering blog readers the Noelle Top pattern for free. Of course, I jumped straight on it! While I always jump at a free pattern I don't always sew it immediately, but Noelle fits right into my current sewing plans of loose fitting casual summer tops. The pattern has dropped shoulders and a curved high-low hem. The linen versions Tianfei posted are absolutely gorgeous and I was really inspired by her colour blocked gathered version. The Noelle Top pattern is now available for purchase.

I cut a size 12 and made a few adjustments. I cut the back piece in half just below the sleeve notch. After adding seam allowance, I cut the top back bodice in main fabric, and the bottom piece in contrasting fabric. Noelle seamed on the short side so I added more length at the back (around 1.5"). I wanted the contrast piece to be slightly gathered so I added 2"to the centre back. For the front piece I created an inverted rounded hem- leaving the centre front as is but grading it out 1.5" longer at the side seam.

In the below photo you can see how the hem curves around the body. I love this look. Although, when I put my arms up or move around a sliver of belly can be seen. So, for future versions I'll probably add an 1" to the front hem.

I sewed the sleeves a little differently than described in the Noelle Sew along post. To hem the sleeves they are simply serged / zig-zagged and then turned and stitched, before sewing the side seam. Instead, I sewed the side seam first, stopping at the sleeve notch. Then pressed the seam allowances away from the seam pressing all the way up to and around the sleeve. I then pinned and stitched 1/4" from the bottom hem up the sleeve allowance, around the sleeves and back down to the other hem. Finally, I reinforced the seam just below the sleeve.  

The fabric is gorgeous Tessuti linen left over from Tim's Negroni/ Archer shirt. It was again, beautiful to sew with and I'm so glad to have a tiny piece of the blue left to make another summer top. 

 I adore this top! I love the fabric combo, the easy-to wear shape and the curved hem. I will absolutely be making more of these tops for summer. Noelle is going to be the perfect pop over during a summer afternoon at the beach (Anyone else hanging out for summer holidays?). Noelle came together super quickly. The pattern was fun to sew and hack! Thanks Tianfei, for offering the pattern to blog readers for free last week :)

Ulooop Lotus Top #2

After sewing up my first Lotus Top, Tianfei from Ulooop got in touch to say she'd drafted a slight variation on the sleeves/ armscye allowing for more arm movement (brilliant!). She sent me through the revised pattern and I whipped up another version. The pattern file is a layered PDF. I'd never used this function before and,to be honest, I didn't take any notice, just printed off the file as usual. My top turned out quite a bit different to my first so I wonder whether I muddled up the cutting lines after incorrectly printing the file. Thankfully, it's still wearable!

For this version of the Lotus Top I cut straight into some Liberty fabric. I won this fabric in a giveaway months ago. I adored the print on screen, and in person, but the the background colour doesn't do much for my skin tone. It makes me feel quite washed out. For these reasons I felt ready to risk the fabric on the top. 

The top came together quickly and easily. I made some self bias binding to bind the neckline. Over-locked the hem and sleeves before turning up once and stitching. French seamed the side seams.

The top turned out very wearable. There is definitely more room in the sleeves, and more arm movement possible. The scooped back is cute as ever and with a tad more sun the fabric will hopefully look a little nicer on me. There is some excess room in the centre front and back and the neckline on this version is a higher than my first Lotus. However, I suspect this is caused by my print/layered PDF issues. 

I'm really enjoying sewing up some quick and easy woven tops for summer. I cut out another Alder shirtdress at least a month ago but I can't bring myself to get started on it. I'm all about the afternoon make at the moment, and I have quite a few more to share.

Ulooop Lotus Top

It's warming up quickly in Melbourne and I'm noticing some serious wardrobe gaps including loose fitting summer tops. I've had the Ulooop Lotus top pattern for months and decided to give it a shot when I picked up a black cotton eyelet remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

My measurements fell between a size 12 and 14, but I cut the 14 for a little extra hiding room post winter binges. I'm glad I did! The pattern only has three pieces and took just under 1.5m of fabric. It was a very quick sew - only a couple of hours from printing off the PDF to wearing the top. I looked over the instructions which seemed thorough and included lots of pictures. However, it's easily enough made without the instructions. 

Things I love about this pattern include the low scooped back neckline, the curved two-piece back, and that it's a comfortable easy to wear top. Things I don't love are the sleeves/armsyce. The sleeves are tight around my "biceps" and the way the armsyce is cut in combination with the sleeve is creating drag lines across my front. I also didn't achieve as nice and neat easing in of the sleeves as usual.

I really love how this top turned out and I'll definitely wear it, but I'll be making some adjustments to the pattern before making again. I think this top would be gorgeous in mismatching but coordinating fabrics à la Bloggless Anna. Check out her Liberty Nani Iro scout and Liberty Gabby Dress. I mentioned this idea to Tim and he wasn't convinced. We'll see. 

I made this top to fill a gap in the wardrobe only to find this morning that I have few bottoms to where with it. Because of the back detail it wouldn't look right tucked in. Next on the agenda is shorts and hip sitting skirts. Who else is gearing up for Spring/summer sewing?