Sewing Experience, Level & Category

My blog description is "Challenges and triumphs of a beginner sewer*...". Over the last few weeks quite a few people have commented either on my blog or in person that I'm not really a beginner sewer any more. I'm not sure when this change occured, if at all, but I guess it might have been after making Tim's Albion Jacket.

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I've only been sewing for aprox 18 months and I guess if I had to describe my sewing skill (or lack there of) it would still be a beginner sewer who dabbles in intermediate and advanced patterns. I'll give anything a go and I like challenging myself but, obviously, I have  much more to learn about sewing than what I know already! And while I might have intermediate skills in one particular area or technique I haven't even learnt the names of many other important sewing techniques. So, for me, my blog description and about me section still hold true, but others might disagree.

So, how do you know what level sewer you are? Do you feel the need to label it at all? Tim says that I'm over thinking it and I shouldn't need to label my skill level at all. Perhaps he has a point? Except that sewing patterns, classes and books are often prescriptive of certain levels so you can identity whether they are appropriate for you or not. But then again I wouldn't hesitate to make patterns, take classes and read books beyond the beginner level. 

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Leimomi from The Dreamstress has a great post on this topic and came up with the following rating scale which I think is useful. It's objective and there's no terminology to either daunt you (e.g. advanced) or hide behind (e.g.beginner). On this scale I'm somewhere around a 5 and a 6. 

1: is an absolute beginners course, for someone who has never been on a sewing machine before.
2: you’ve made cushions or something similar, and know how to set zips and make buttonholes.|
3: you can follow a simple sewing pattern.
4: you’ve moved up to more complicated patterns with linings.
5: you’re ready to start making adaptions to your patterns to suit your taste and to fit you better.
6: you’ve begun to draft your own simple patterns and making up moderately difficult patterns
7: you’re beginning to play with draping, and trickier fabrics
8: you’re working your way up to difficult fabrics, evening wear, tailoring and tricky fitting issues
9: you’re making your own patterns, and working with couture techniques.
10: is for someone with experience in pattern making, couture sewing, and advanced fitting.
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Finally, I know lots of seamstresses have a problem with the word sewer and it's association with plumbing. I admit it's not ideal. But as a beginner sewer I never felt that I could call myself a seamstress. To me, that feels like a word reserved for people who know what they're doing, perhaps have formal training, and maybe even make an income from their skill. Thus, I will continue to be a sewer for the time being. 

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I'd love to know if others feel similarly about rating their skill level or perhaps you don't bother? 

Course Review: Thread Den Sewing With Stretch

Since beginning sewing I've been fairly hesitant to sew with stretch fabrics. For my first attempt I made up the Skirt as Top Free Scoop Tee pattern. It fitted great but the hem is a shocker and I left the sleeves unfinished to reduce further mistakes. 

I decided to attend a Thread Den Sewing With Stretch Class to hopefully improve my skills in this area. It was quite affordable, especially as it included 6.5 lesson hours over 2 nights. What particularly attracted me to this class was that it covered sewing with stretch on your usual sewing machine as well as using overlocker machines. Thus, I could learn some 'in the mean time skills' and try out an overlocker! Here's a quick review of the class in case anyone is thinking about attending one. FYI, I have no affiliation with Thread Den and these are all my own words and opinions. 

The class was rated at a 3/5 difficulty level and it was suggested that you should have some experience with zips buttonholes and perhaps have used paper patterns. However, I think as long long as you can thread a machine and trace a paper pattern you'll be fine. 

The first night involved a bit of a speech around the history of stretch fabric and the different types on offer. Also covered was how to pre-wash, dry and cut stretch fabrics. Most of this information was super basic but occasionally there was a good tip. For example, when cutting stretch fabric don't let it slip and stretch over the edge of the cutting table as it will distort the fabric you are cutting. 

Spots and stripes. Excuse the clothes horse in the background. 

Afterwards each participants (four in the class) was provided with a one size fits all kimono sleeve slash neck t-shirt pattern to trace and then sew up in fabric which you were asked to bring along. You are asked to thread your machine, taught which stitch is best for use with stretch fabric and then asked to stitch the shoulder seams and up each side. In this class you don't finish the hem, neckline or sleeves at all. The size and unfinished look means the top was destined to be paired with pyjama bottoms imo. 

For the second class you're asked to bring along a 2 way stretch (which you are taught how to identify) for a more fitted top. A pattern is provided based only on your bust size. I would have like to be able to grade out the pattern to make it a little looser around my hips. Even with the super two way stretch I find it a little unflattering.

In this class we had the option of using the sewing machine or the overlocker. I put my hand up for the overlocker and I'm a changed women! It whizzed up the side seams and arms so fast. And boy are flat sleeve insertions quick and easy to sew (another benefit of sewing with stretch fabrics). We were taught how to draft our own neck ribbing by measuring around the neckline, multiplying by .75  and adding seam allowance. This is a good tip but I found my ribbing a little tight for my neckline (measurement error I guess).

   

Unfortunately I had to leave the class a little early so I didn't get the chance to finish the hem or sleeves. I bought a twin needle to finish them at home but my sewing machine has refused to obey me! I re-threaded them, adjusted the tension and the thread length but gave up in the end. The left needle just wont play nice. Also, my machine doesn't have the lightening bolt stretch stitch which does a neater job of sewing with stitch than a tiny zig zag stitch. More than anything this class really just showed me how badly I need an overlocker and how wonderful they are. I would recommend this class for a beginner sewer who has never sewn with stretch fabric before. 

Perhaps it's more flattering tucked in?