Megan Nielsen Flint Shorts

I fell quickly in love with the shorts version of the most recent Megan Nielsen Pattern, "Flint".  The high waist with side tie closure were perfect! But I had my doubts about the open front pleats. I was worried that the pleats would always want to sit open, with my large-ish thighs, and perhaps be unflattering. Thankfully, Meg put together an easy to follow tutorial on removing the pleats to create a flat front. Arent we spoilt!

I made Version 4 in a straight size medium. This fabric is a lovely light cotton denim bought from The Cloth Shop. I've used it previously for a Ilsley skirt and Miette skirt. It's a super versatile fabric and very lightweight and comfortable for summer. It's Autumn here and much too chilly for shorts, but I actually really like them over tights. Bare leg modeling will have to wait for an upcoming trip to Malaysia. 

I followed the instruction booklet exactly with the exception of the front flat and reducing the hem by 1/2". I also back tacked at the bottom and top edges of the pocket opening to strengthen and take some load of the main seams. The instruction diagrams and steps were clear. Really, sewing this pattern is a cinch and so quick. Very surprising for a shorts/pants pattern.

I'm reasonably happy with the fit. There a couple of minor issues. The internal waist button is not in the right spot (you can see the pulling), but thats an easy fix. There is a small amount of excess fabric at the back waistline that could be pinched out and then added to the crotch. There are also a couple of pull lines around the front waist/pockets but this is really an issue of excess winter layers (and winter weight).

I now really want to try out the pants, perhaps in a heavy linen or lightweight wool. There are some beautiful versions in the blogosphere. I especially these "magic pants" by Helen (FunkBunny).

Bluegingerdoll Alicia Shorts

I pattern tested the Bluegingerdoll Alicia Shorts which were recently released as part of the "A team" collection. I really like shorts, in particular high waisted shorts that flare out at the leg and finish mid thigh. Based off the line drawings I adore these shorts.

I made up a size 12 in some slightly stretchy blue and white striped twill fabric from GJ's. I love how the fabric looks on this pattern. Very summery (speaking of Summer, please come back!)

The instructions are clear and the shorts came together incredibly quickly as there are no tricky closures (just an invisible zip) or any pockets or belt loops to construct. I think belt loops would be a sweet addition however so you can keep a belt secure around the waist.

The fit around the waist and hips is spot on and I love the look of my shorts on the hanger. Unfortunately, I don't love the way they fit around the crotch. There seems to be excessive fabric around the front region which is being pulled every which way and bunches up as I walk around. The crotch curve seems like it fits well but I wonder if I dropped the crotch lower it could help the fabric sit better at the front.

Above and below is how the shorts sit after walking around for a few seconds. They really bunch up and the resulting look is very different to how they look when smoothed down.

  

Overall, I love the style of the shorts, the fabric and the fit around the waist but, sadly, I'm a little disappointed about the front fit on me. 

I received the Alicia Shorts pattern for free, in exchange for pattern testing. 

Denim K & L Tap Shorts

I'm in love with the Katy & Laney Tap Short Pattern and this pair of shorts in particular!

I wasn't, however, in love with this Tessuti Alice top on me. It may have been something to do with my atrocious hair at the time, but I just didn't feel it flattered me. Even so, I've reached for this top a heap this summer as it's so darn comfy and easy to wear. One lovely sewing friend mentioned that it would look great with denim shorts and I was a girl possessed after that. Must make denim shorts! Short story: I did, they are awesome, and they look awesome with Alice. 

It was an obvious decision to make the pockets/facings etc with the leftover cotton/ linen blend from my Alice top. The main fabric is a 3% stretch dark denim from Tessuti. It's a really nice weight and was very affordable. I'm not sure how it would perform for jeans but it's gorgeous for these shorts.

I've previously made the Tap Short's in version B Front (pleats) with Back 2 (Welt pockets) in size 8. The fit was spot on last time. This time I made version C front with a zip fly front and angled side pockets. I used a hook and bar instead of a button to fasten the shorts and finished all the insides with my overclocker. I flat felled the crotch seam for a more traditional jeans look, and stitched in the ditch to secure the waist band rather than catch stitching down. The instructions suggest interfacing the waistband and the facing, but given the weight of the denim I only interfaced the facings.

The pieces came together beutifully and the instructions were excellent. The fly went in really well. My only complaint is that some how my fly shield ended up about 1/2"  too thin but it doesn't affect the shorts at all.
Update: A friend pondered whether I had a small fitting issue around the hips that resulted in the pockets poofing open as seen above. Thanks for the constructive feedback Rachel! I definitely have enough ease around my hips and the pockets mostly sit perfectly flat. I think the photo above is the result of me rushing to stuff the thick denim and linen pocket lining back in so Tim could take some quick snaps. Not to say the shorts fit perfectly but they are pretty darn close.

After making my first pair of Tap Shorts I wasn't sure about the high waisted look. I now realise that they are actually some of the most flattering and comfortable shorts I own and I'm so glad to have added another comfy pair to my wardrobe. These shorts are going to be flogged this summer.

Floral Colette Iris Shorts

Last Summer I made my butcher Orange Iris Shorts. The fit wasn't perfect but what annoyed me more was that the linen rayon stretched strangely and wrinkled badly. I cut another pair at the time, then came 9 months of cool weather in Melbourne. I finally made up that second pair.

Again, I made version 1, cutting a size 8 but with the length extended to a size 18. The only change I made was to exclude the front in seam pockets as I found them really annoyingly positioned. The fabric is a Darn Cheap Fabrics cotton sateen. When cutting out the pieces last summer I went to the effort to pattern match the front leg seam - see below. Pretty happy with my efforts! 

The fit is slightly better in this sturdy fabric without the front pockets. I sewed the crotch with a smaller seam allowance and that also helped to improve the fit. The crotch on my last pair was well too high. This pair is passable - just. But I find the waist band sits at an uncomfortable level for me. It's not on my hips or at my waist. It sits right across by stomach / food baby. For highwaisted shorts I'd prefer the K & L Tap shorts which sits comfortable on my natural waist. 

Tim really likes these shorts but I was worried the dark floral looked more like PJ shorts. I took the vote to Instagram and was convinced otherwise, thanks friends! 

I will wear these shorts this summer and I do think they are fun but I don't know that I'll be sewing up the Iris Shorts pattern again. Summer shorts need to be comfy and the mid waist rise just isn't. I think I'll go on a short sewing bender this summer. I've just sewn up another pair of K & L Tap shorts and I really want to try the Grainline Studio Maritime Shorts for a low rise short pattern. Does anyone have any other favourite Short patterns they'd recommend?

Christmas Gifts For Nieces & Nephews

Another installment in Christmas gift sewing 2014. This time, the gifts I sewed for some of my nieces and Nephews.

For my youngest niece, V, I made the free Pleated Playsuit Pattern by Elegance & Elephants out of some left over quilting cotton and bird linen from her mum's Alice top. I cut a size 2 and followed the instructions baring two changes: I extended the short cuffs so they could be folded up and tacked down and used two rows of 1/4"elastic instead of 1/2"elastic because that's what I had on hand.

I love this pattern and will definitely make it up again some time. If only it cam in my size!

I made V and two older nieces, A & A, drawstring skirts using Melly Sews tutorial. I've made up this skirt before and I think it's a great pattern to sew for kids who you don't have the exact measurements of. The drawstring means they can always draw the skirt tighter or looser.

I made the girls skirts in various cotton drills and poplins from spotlight. They are super bright and fun. Hopefully the girls think so too. I especially like the way the folded over pocket flaps look on the stripey version. V striped down to get straight into her skirt during Christmas lunch. She seemed particularly keen on the pockets.

My nephews J and R received new MADE Kid Shorts as they have grown out of last years versions. I have definitely gotten my moneys worth from this pattern. I think I would've sewn at least 30 pairs now. 

I made these shorts from some cotton drills (green stars and black and white geometirc print) and cotton poplin (hot air balloons). I asked Tim to come help me pick out the fabrics for the boys as I really struggle to see "manly" fabrics among the sea of floral's, pinks and purples. I'm not sure if we hit the mark, but we tried.
 

Like last time, I added welt zipper pockets for the boys shorts in addition to back patch pockets. I used fabrics left over from Tim's Pooch PJ Shorts for the pocket linings so there is a little bit of fun in each pocket! I also added cuffs to J's pair of shorts as they are popular at the moment and I thought he might like them.

Thanks goodness another year of Christmas sewing is over! While these are all simple patterns they do take a bit of time to come together each year from planning to gifting. It is super fun sewing up clothes in such bright and sturdy fabrics though and I love seeing the kids in their gifted clothes during the year.

Spotty Jed's and Pooch Darcy Boxers

First up in blogging Christmas gifts are Tim's Jed's and Darcy Shorts.

I made a pair of Thread Theory Jedediah Shorts for Tim last November and he wears them all the time. As a part of his Christmas gift I decided to make another pair, this time from some navy and white spotty drill from Spotlight. I left sewing Tim's gifts until I'd finished sewing for my nieces, nephews and others. I was putting these shorts off as they were quite a big project last November. Turns out, after another year of sewing experience they were relatively simple and quick!

I made up size 32 again and they fit great. I followed the instructions exactly except for the bias binding the seams. I made the binding, but piked out deciding that the overlocker looked neater than the bias. For this version I rolled up the hem and sewed them down at the side seams. Even with the rolled hem I cut 2" of the shorts. I need to remember to make this change to the pattern next time so as not to waist the fabric.

This time around I took the time to add the decorational stitching on the back pocket, although you can't really see it, and I also used this method to reinforce the pocket and hide all raw seams. My only other change was to fold under the waistband seam allowance and stitch in the ditch rather than leaving the bound edge exposed.

The instructions are reasonably good and where they lack the sew along holds your hand. Two things I love about this pattern/instructions are the fly insertion instruction and also the way the waist band centre front is attached. The instructions really simplify the methods and provide a very professional look I think. Tim wore these Christmas day and looked fabulous in them if I do say so myself!

I also made up the Measure Twice Cut Once Darcy Shorts for some PJ shorts for Tim. They have a functional button fly and an exposed waistband. I cut a size large which looked ginormous before adding the waistband but the fit turned out perfect.  I made them from some Dog cotton from Spotlight and they are pretty darn cute. 

The instructions have a women's and a men's variation. I followed the Men's in addition to adding 7cm of length to each short leg so that the hems hit just above the knees. The instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. However the elastic length and button placement is left for you to decide. Tim really likes these Jammie shorts and they are perfect for out summer nights. 

K&L Outfit: Geometry Top & Tap Shorts

Katey & Laney are well known bloggers and now pattern designers. When they released the Tap Shorts pattern I was really intrigued but decided to wait for spring and some reviews (which there are now many). Then the Geometry Top was released and I took the plunge and bought both PDF patterns. Funnily enough the patterns go really well together and I just happened to pick coordinating fabrics.

First up, the Tap Shorts. 

I love that the pattern has a couple of different variations, including a more traditional front fly variation. For my first version I tried front B (open front pleats) with back 2 (welt pockets). I really like the high waisted style but I'm not totally convinced about it on my body. We'll see how I feel after a few wears. 

Fabric is leftover from my my most worn Alder shirt dress. A navy rayon blend with silver metallic thread woven through it. It wrinkles terribly but I love the sheen and weight of the fabric. I cut a size 8 which seems to fit perfectly. There is the perfect amount of room at the waist to fit in a summer BBQ. 

The pattern instructions were fantastic! Incredibly detailed and pretty much fool proof imo. One of the best tips was to remark your welt placement after sewing the back darts which was absolutely necessary.  I ended up sewing only one welt, because why not? The welt instructions were slightly different to what I'm used too but it turned out pretty fantastic thanks to the instructions.

The only changes I made to the pattern was to keep the front pleats sewn down rather then unpicking the basting stitches. I've seen others do this as well. I tried opening them up but there just isn't enough fabric in the front piece to accommodate a nice drape (in my opinion, on my body). The pleats pulled toward my sides despite the shorts fitting me quite well. I also bound the waistband facing rather then folding under and stitched it down by machine.

Now the Geometry Top.
I made version B but sewed the centre front and side pieces together right down to the hem rather than leaving a slit open. I cut a size 6. For the front and sleeves I used a lovely stripey viscose, with a navy remnant for the back ( I think a poly). Both fabrics are from The Cloth Shop, actually the whole outfit is!

The top is quite over-sized and very long, particularly in the back. I ended up hemming the top with a 2" hem to remove some excess. I think over-sized style and the length makes it look like there is just too much fabric in the back. A cropped length might be better suited. Otherwise I like the style and think it looks quite good tucked in. Once again the instructions were very good.

What I don't like about K & Patterns: 

K & L Patterns include a different PDF file for each of the variations, however there is a lot of overlap in pattern pieces between versions. This is not a problem, maybe even good news, if you only ever plan on sewing one variation. But I like variety, so I printed 2 different variations of each pattern to begin with as I had plans for both. For the Top I printed Version B to find that 7 pages were superfluous as they'd already been printed, taped together, cut out from version C. For the shorts there were 10(!) repeated pages when I printed out Version C, after already printing Version B. If I had printed all three versions of the short pattern then at least 20 pages would have been wasted. 

I think these separate files are a great idea in theory, but actually a bigger waist of paper. The ideal would be to have the pages listed that we could skip if already having printed an earlier variation. How do others feel about all this wasted paper? 

Overall, I love my new outfit and I hope to get lots of wear from the separates this summer. I'll definitely make up both patterns again and am particularly impressed with the Tap Shorts. I look forward to seeing what's next from K & L Patterns. 

Some Selfless Sewing

I haven't felt much like blogging lately. I've a few things I need to get photos of but I've mostly been focusing on selfless sewing as it tis' the season afterall. So, I have a few bits and pieces to share with minimal text.

First up, my niece has out grown the MADE Kids Shorts gifted to her last Christmas so I whipped up a few more pairs from fabric scrapes. Dotty chambray, green cotton, and pineapples with yellow mini pom poms. They were all well received, most of all the green pair. I know I'm bias, but isn't the above photo just ridiculously cute?!

I've been wanting to try Melissa's drawstring skirt tutorial since she posted it. I made up a size 2 in some really fun fabric. My niece loves this skirt and I'll definitely use the tutorial again and again for her as well as my older nieces as the tutorial goes up to a size 16 girls. I'm not always a fan of tutorials that require maths, measuring your self/ child, or drafting pieces but this one really couldn't be easier. A sizing chart is even provided. 

I made much smaller pockets than suggested ( I cut 5x6" rather than 6x9"). I also find the drawstrings a little tough to tighten through the single hole so next time I'll make two button holes, one for each end of the drawstring.

Finally, I promised one my sisters a simple loose fitting summer top for her birthday. We have the special linen put away while we try out a few pattern styles and sizes. First up is the Marilla Walker Maya pattern which I made not long ago for myself. I cut the smallest size but I could see from the measurement chart that it may still be too large.

I made the top from stash fabric: the front is a white and navy voil from spotlight and the back is a lightweight cotton from The Cloth Shop. Unfortunately the fit is just too large, even for a boxy top. Next time I will fold out some width at the centre front and back before cutting into the fabric. My sister also asked for added length. I added 1.5"on this version but next time I'll probably add around 3"total. Bedsides some fitting issues, it's a very sweet top and hopefully it will get some wear. 

Next up is some sewing for me (yay!), probably following my Xmas sewing. I'm sewing some Katey and Laney patterns and hoping to also get some photos of previous makes this weekend. So, who else is sewing Christmas presents out there? Only for the children in your life, or adults too?