Papercut Patterns: Coppelia Cardy Version 2

After making up my beloved my Pink ballet wrap Pappercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigan I jumped straight into making the newly released longer faux wrap version.

 

 

I had ample wrap overlap in my first version so decided to grade my pattern pieces back down to a straight XS. I used the left over grey merino from my Ensis Tee. Once again  I sewed the pattern with only (almost) my overlocker and once again it came together like a dream. It was a super quick make, perhaps even quicker than the wrap version as the bottom cuff goes on a bit simpler. Just one thing slowed me down.

 

After sewing up the side seams and trying on I noticed the front wrap pieces were WAY too roomy. They sort of draped down across my chest rather than fitting around my chest. I'd already overlocked the edges - ugh! I sort seam ripped sort of cut open the seams from the bottom to just above where the wrap pieces finish (about waist height). I pulled the front bodice pieces tight, only at the short wrap sides, not at the long side, and basted the sides to see if the fit was better. As you can see in the above photo I graded the shorter wrap side out by about 1/2" at the bottom to about 1.5" at the top of the wrap. This is after already loosing some width from overlocking and seam ripping. After deciding I was happy on the fit I cut off the excess fabric and overlocked the side seams once more.

 

I like the resulting fit, but it is still quite slouchy. I don't mind in this instance as my merino is quite drapey and slouchy itself. Next time I will probably cut the pattern pieces down before cutting into my fabric. I definitely recommend basting the side seams (at least from the waist down) and checking the front bodice fit before stitching/overlocking.

 

I'm super happy with this jumper and I know I'll get a heap of wear out of it. Today is my third day in a row wearing coppelia cardy's. I especially love how not-homemade the wrap collar, hem and cuffs look and feel. Also, I'm going to state the obvious and say that sewing with Merino has been seriously delightful. And wearing it even better! I can see myself regularly buying up a few different shades when ever I need/want a new jumper or cardy.

 

Thanks to Tim for quickly taking these photo before work. Please excuse my translucent face caused by morning light.