Night Dress

Tim's mum lent me some of her patterns recently, one of which was this 1981 Style 3420 elasticised dress/jumpsuit pattern. I thought about making the dress but summer has come to an end here and the days are already too crisp to wear a lightweight relaxed fit dress. But I really needed some nighties, and this pattern was pretty much perfect for a nighty. Does anyone else use day time wear patterns to make PJ's or nighties?

The only changes I made were to remove 2" from the bodice so that the elastic was at the empire waist rather than the natural waist. For some reason empire line styles seem more appropriate and comfortable for nighties (I don't know why, they just do). I also took about 6" off the length and overlocked the hem using the rolled hem function.

The instructions were easy to follow and the construction couldn't be simpler. Construction involves creating a faux centre front facing using the seam allowance, adding an under arm facing and creating casings at the neckline and waist. Done!

I used some spotlight cotton lawn I'd bought over a year ago, and the elastic and ribbon came from Tim's Gma's stash. This means that the nighty cost me $0 as everything was in the stash/ given to me. 

PJ's are a great choice for using up cotton fabrics that are just a little too sweet or girly. I have a couple more fabrics in my stash which would make gorgeous nighties, or PJs. Sewing jammies is pretty boring but it's useful AND uses up fabrics which makes space for NEW fabrics. It's a win-win!

Spotty Jed's and Pooch Darcy Boxers

First up in blogging Christmas gifts are Tim's Jed's and Darcy Shorts.

I made a pair of Thread Theory Jedediah Shorts for Tim last November and he wears them all the time. As a part of his Christmas gift I decided to make another pair, this time from some navy and white spotty drill from Spotlight. I left sewing Tim's gifts until I'd finished sewing for my nieces, nephews and others. I was putting these shorts off as they were quite a big project last November. Turns out, after another year of sewing experience they were relatively simple and quick!

I made up size 32 again and they fit great. I followed the instructions exactly except for the bias binding the seams. I made the binding, but piked out deciding that the overlocker looked neater than the bias. For this version I rolled up the hem and sewed them down at the side seams. Even with the rolled hem I cut 2" of the shorts. I need to remember to make this change to the pattern next time so as not to waist the fabric.

This time around I took the time to add the decorational stitching on the back pocket, although you can't really see it, and I also used this method to reinforce the pocket and hide all raw seams. My only other change was to fold under the waistband seam allowance and stitch in the ditch rather than leaving the bound edge exposed.

The instructions are reasonably good and where they lack the sew along holds your hand. Two things I love about this pattern/instructions are the fly insertion instruction and also the way the waist band centre front is attached. The instructions really simplify the methods and provide a very professional look I think. Tim wore these Christmas day and looked fabulous in them if I do say so myself!

I also made up the Measure Twice Cut Once Darcy Shorts for some PJ shorts for Tim. They have a functional button fly and an exposed waistband. I cut a size large which looked ginormous before adding the waistband but the fit turned out perfect.  I made them from some Dog cotton from Spotlight and they are pretty darn cute. 

The instructions have a women's and a men's variation. I followed the Men's in addition to adding 7cm of length to each short leg so that the hems hit just above the knees. The instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. However the elastic length and button placement is left for you to decide. Tim really likes these Jammie shorts and they are perfect for out summer nights. 

Tim's Birthday Negroni Shirt & Moose PJs

For Tim's birthday I offered to make him a shirt. I liked the idea of making a Colette Patterns Negroni as I knew the instructions would be beginner friendly for my first men's shirt attempt. I bought the pattern from Indie Stitches.

 

 

My biggest issue was finding suitable fabric. Tim has a lot of checked and striped shirts so I wanted something a little different to that. Finding shirting fabric for men that isn't just white or pastel stripes is difficult, imo. In the end we decided I'd make one out of Robert Kaufman spotted chambray in indigo. Of course, I couldn't find a supplier with any stock left so we are waiting for more fabric to come instock.

In the mean time I made a wearable muslin out of same navy and white cotton I used for my sleeveless Archer. Yep, we have matching shirts! I used a light blue and white cotton for the contrasting inner yoke, cuffs, under collar and cuff plackets. I got this fabric and the white shirt buttons from an older shirt of Tim's that had worn thin at the collar.

I cut a size Small in Version A and decided against the pockets and the collar button loop. All exposed seams are French and/or foe fell seamed. I followed the instructions exactly and made no changes to the pattern.

Making Archers shirts (1, 2)  put my in good stead for the Negroni, but there were a few major differences in construction/pattern. The Negroni Shirt has a fantastic cuff button placket! The pattern piece is rather scary but well labelled and surprisingly easy to transform into the gorgeous top stitched button placket. The other major difference between this pattern and Archer is that the Negroni has no collar stand and the entire neckline and shirt opening is faced rather then making button plackets. I think this makes for an even easier/quicker sew. However, I think I prefer the look of a structured crisp collar stand and button plackets. I would like to try a few other men's shirt pattern eventually (e.g. Vogue8759).

The fit is pretty good through the body, narrow but with room to eat. The only change I will make for the real thing (patiently awaiting the fabric...) is to take some width out the sleeves and maybe a 1/2" of length.

In addition to the shirt I made Tim another pair of Simplicity PJs Pants. This pair are made from some lovely flannelette I picked up at the Cloth Shop. I sewed this pair identical to the last.

Work shirts and Moose PJ's  - what a well rounded man of 26 years.  Happy birthday Tim!

Pattern Testing: Prefontaine Shorts For Women

If you've got kids and you sew, I'm sure you've heard of the Prefontaine Shorts pattern by Made with Moxie. Well now there's a women's version, but slightly more pimped out! I put my hand up to pattern test for Jill some time ago and made three versions. The Womens Prefontaine shorts have just been pre released as the bonus pattern when you spend $28+ for the latest Perfect Pattern Parcel.

The Prefontaine shorts are an elastic waist design with front pockets, optional back patch or welt pockets, curved hems and bound seams. The design is incredibly versatile and also has a exposed elastic variation. With the right fabric they can be your summer shorts, running shorts or (like in my case) PJ shorts. Apologies in advance for yet another post where I'm wearing PJ's. I made no effort to style the shorts for these photos- they are PJS after all!

                 

The first pair I made were from an earlier version of pattern testing so they exclude any design features. I made them from a blue and green pea flannel with a green pre-bought bias binding. The fit is great and they are fantastically comfy PJ shorts.

For my second pair I made the shorty short variation (hence the tights) with front pockets. I made them out of the left over fabric from Tim's Woodland animal PJ pants. I love these PJ shorts so much! In the instructions Jill includes great tip on making your own bias out of an old tshirt or knit fabric scraps. Because it's knit fabric you don't have to fussy cut on the bias. For this pair of shorts I used left over grey fabric from my Eva Dress to make the (non)bias strips.



This length shorts is perfect for summer PJ's, running shorts or even beach cover up shorts.

Finally I made a third pair of shorts with both front pockets and a welt back pocket. For this pair I chose the left over fabric from my hacked Floral Emery dress skirt and peppermint wrap dress. I used an old singlet top I never wear to make (non) bias for the trimming. I made two button holes in the waistband before sewing down the waistband and used left over bias to make a waist drawstring. I really like this addition. I tried and make this pair of shorts more casual day wear. Something comfy and casual for summer weekends. I don't really own shorts like this, I wear skirts or more fitted tailored shorts. To be honest, I don't think I can pull this look off. But, that may just be because I'm in the middle of autumn here and my legs are super pale.

I absolutely recommended this pattern. They're an achievable make for beginners but with enough versatility to excite a more experienced sewer. If you think you might want to make exercise shorts, summer shorts, PJ shorts or anything in between the Prefontaine Shorts are a winner.

Bonus Sew Cheap Pattern Review: Simplicity PJ's

This month I'm posting a bonus sew cheap pattern review. I'm not counting this as one of my challenged 12 as I made it for Tim, not me, and I've actually already made this pattern before. The Simplicity Easy PJ Pants are a freely available multisize pattern for men and women.

Last year I made up a pair for Tim's birthday out of orange and white robot flannelette. They turned out super cute. I cut him a Size M and the fit was good, but we agreed that the waistband sits much higher than necessary. 

This time I again used size M but increased the waist band size. The pattern says to turn down the waist band 1/4"and again 7/8" (total 1&1/8"), sew and insert 1/2"elastic. Instead I turned down the waist band a total of 2": about 3/4" under and then again a 1 &1/4". I also used 1"elastic. This removes some of the excess length in the waist and also creates a more substantial, sturdy waist band. I used brown twill tape from the draw string.  Otherwise I followed the instructions. Except that I sewed up all my seams on an overlocker (Thats right! I bought an overlocker!! More on that another time) barring the hem and waistband. 

I bought this animal flannelette from Spotlight. How freakin' adorable is it? I have a small amount left so I might make myself some PJ shorts or perhaps make PJ pants from nephews. Tim's really pleased with his new PJ pants. I'm not so sure he's pleased with me posting picture of them online...

The pattern instructions are very thorough and, in my opinion, a bit overly wordy. By following the pictures/diagrams you will be happily on your way to sewing yourself some jammies, no need to get bogged down in the text. This pattern is perfect for beginners and also for those wanting to whip up some PJ's quick smart.
  

If you like this post, check out my Sew Cheap: Top Tips,  Sew Cheap: Free Patterns and previous Sew Cheap posts.