Made in 2018 (Warning: long post!)

Hello to those still following this blog! I haven't blogged since 1 January 2018, so it's probably about time I posted a round-up of my 2018 handmades.
It's a long post! So here's a summary for those after a quick fix: 

2018 was a year of boxy tops and dresses, ruffles (sleeve, back and bum!), and lovely linen fabrics. I had success with a new pants pattern but the second half of the year focused on maternity friendly dresses. Hoping to get back to sewing pants late 2019. Below are some very glamorous selfies taken in the spare bedroom, work toilets and foyer. Enjoy!

1. In Progress...

In addition to a couple of unfinished dresses I'm hoping to get to before the end of summer, we're expecting our first baby due in March 2019! All is well with both baby and I. I haven't been sewing any maternity clothes per se but my love for tent dresses has really come in handy.

2. Black Feather Viscose Tessuti Lois Dress

This Lois Dress was a follow up from my wearable muslin - details here.  I prefer my first version which got a lot of wear last summer. But this black version has been a great option this summer as the floaty skirt still fits over my baby bump and is less sheer than the white version.

3.  Pineapple Ruffle Sleeve Noelle Top

I get so much wear out of my navy spotty ruffle sleeve top made late last year - another version was a no-brainer. I made both tops from a slightly modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern, but those ruffle sleeves are a simple addition to any boxy top pattern. 

This version was meant to be a casual summer vibe -  but I wonder if it's actually pyjama resort wear?

4. Double Weave Linen Cotton Gingham Dress

This dress is another modified version of the Ulooop Noelle top pattern. 

Modifications include: cut width from the Centre front (see previous ruffle sleeve tops for details), sliced the back piece below the underarm for a ruffle back (details in ruffle top version), and lengthened for a mini dress. 

I found the double weave linen cotton blend (bought from The Cloth Shop) too heavy for me, but the dress found a new home with a good friend, and it has since received the love and wear it deserves.

5. 2* Butterick 6182 Box Top

My first Butterick 6182 is a copycat from a display at The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe. After months of eyeballing the fabric pattern combo I made my very own out of this beautiful cotton soon after to be followed by a navy linen/cotton blend.

I followed the pattern as standard - no changes necessary. The sleeve bands and front darts make this pattern a little more interesting and well fitted compared to other boxy tops I've sewn.

I've gotten a lot of wear out of these tops and thankfully they also work well with maternity skirts etc. I particularly love the navy version which has a nice drape.

6. Linen Tessuti Lisa Dress
I made this Tessuti Lisa Dress early 2018 and it got some good wear at the time. But it's been a godsend this past month or two as the weather heats up. There is so much room in the skirt that you almost can't tell I'm pregnant which is a nice change.  

I think the buttons may be cut just low enough to also work as a nursing dress without any modifications. Otherwise, I could lower the curved bodice/skirt seam a little and add an extra button for a great nursing dress/top. 

The pattern comes together well with lovely neat insides. I made the size small. Personally, I think the armscye is a little big with the underarms cut too low. On me, you can spot the side of my bra.  But, that's allowed for more bust room which is helpful at the moment. This version is made from a green/white chambray waxed linen from The Cloth Shop. I will definitely be making this one again.

 7. Black Linen Megan Nielsen Flint Pants

Not much to say as these are my fourth pair of the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants/Shorts. Details on previous versions here. 

As done previously, I've removed the front box pleat and added a double side button rather than one bigger button. I find the double button to be more secure and keeps the waistband from folding down.

 I LOVE this pattern and look forward to squeezing back into my Flints.

8. Denim Persephone Sailor Pants 
The Anna Allen Persephone Sailor Pants & Shorts were my first foray into sewing Jeans and a button fly. To sum up - I think this is a great first jeans pattern for those starting out!

The covered button fly means you can have some fun with your buttons rather than using metal jeans buttons. I went with plastic white and navy striped buttons on the covered fly and a navy sailor button at the waist. Next year I need to conquer metal buttons and hardware. 

I used non-stretch denim and found the fit pretty good but not super comfortable when sitting. Next year I'd be keen to sew up a black stretch denim pair.  

9. In the Folds Peplum Dress

If you haven't already checked out the free In the Folds patterns available on Peppermint Sewing School - Stop and do so immediately! There are a handful of fantastic patterns available, including the Peplum Top. I've sewn the top up twice before - both getting a lot of wear. Given how high the peplum starts the top is maternity friendly if you extend the peplum length. 

I made a dress version out of some gingham linen (also from The Cloth Shop) to get me through a big-bellied summer. I intended to make a size up for a little more bust room - but accidentally went up two sizes making the dress a little too big. But it works for a comfy summer dress and I'm keen to make another slightly smaller version. 

10. Burnt Orange Bum Ruffle Dress

By far my favourite make of 2018! This dress is the very popular Vogue 9237 Back Bum Ruffle Dress sewn in a vibrant medium weight burnt orange linen (Yep - fromt The Cloth Shop). The fabric easily transitions from winter to summer outfits - but I actually prefer it layered up with winter tights, boots and cardigans.

 Ruffles, Pockets, Maternity friendly - what's not to love?

Well actually the armsyce and neckline are way too high and restrictive, but both are an easy fix. I took around 1/2" from the neckline and the underarm. I have summer version in progress in a lighter fabric.

Thanks to those who made it through this giant photo dump. I'm not sure how often I'll blog next year. I mainly use instagram to follow along with the online sewing universe. Hope to see you there!

Happy New Year!

Favourite Things Top: Ruffle Sleeve Noelle

There were several more makes for 2017 that I'll (maybe) blog another time. This is my very last make of 2017. Finished just in time to wear for a relaxing New Years Eve with Tim. Featuring spots, ruffles and navy fabric, this is definitely my "Favourite Things" top!

 

My sister and I saw some fabulous linen tops and dresses with ruffle sleeves being sold at a local market recently. We fell in love, but, as all too common for us, didn't make the purchase and later regretted it. I searched for the designer online and at the same market a month later but haven't come across the tops/dresses again. This top is inspired by the one that got away. 

I started with the Ulooop Noelle Top pattern (sewn previously: V1, V2). The Noelle pattern is an incredibly simple (but effective) design: boxy top, dropped sleeves, no closures, bias bound neckline. My first version was very cropped (with nearly no allowance for then hem) and roomy in the front bodice. For this version I made the following mods: 

- Added 1.5" to length and removed curved front and back hem. 

- Removed 1.25" width from the centre front of front bodice piece. There is still plenty of room to get the top on and off without an added closure. But, the neckline sits more comfortably now and I'm less swamped by the fabric. 

- Used a wide 1.5" hem and included 2" slits at either side seam. 

- Cut 5" (including seam allowance) wide ruffles, twice the length of the sleeve opening. Overlocked and hemmed outer and side edges and attached the ruffle to the sleeve opening.

The fabric is a gorgeous Japanese linen blend (?) from The Cloth Shop. Its a dark navy with lighter shades throughout and an off-white polka dot pattern. This fabric is what my dreams are made of!

I've really happy with how the top turned out, and I feel great in it!  I'd like to make one or two more in block coloured linen fabrics. But, I find it difficult to look past beautiful blues. My motto is, of course, all the things in blue! This makes it difficult to pair tops and bottoms together without looking too matchy matchy. Not to mention, also heavily matching with Tim's navy dominated wardrobe.  Perhaps I'll start slowly with a few white and black items in 2018. 

                                       

Megan Nielsen Brumby Skirt

I pattern tested the Brumby Skirt for Megan Nielsen and I have nothing but positive things to say about the just released pattern. It's a gathered skirt with deep curved pockets, an exposed back zip and various length and fullness options.

I made up version A in a size M out of some gorgeous lightweight black denim from The Cloth Shop with a 7" zip and liberty offcuts for the facing and pocket lining. I love the length of version A. It's mini without being too revealing. I also like that this pattern has a curved waistband, it's absolutely necessary for such a wide waistband.

The instructions were clear and detailed. I found the instructions for the exposed back zip really interesting and thorough. I'll definitely use them again for other patterns as they made for a lovely and easily inserted zip.

I did a lot of top stitching on this skirt and it was my first time using topstitching thread. In some places the thickness of the denim and the thread threw the tension off so it's a bit bubbly on the wrong side. But, I love the way the tan thread looks against the denim.

This is a super fun pattern to make and wear and I'd really like to make a midi version despite knowing that it just wouldn't suit me. Especially as I rarely wear heels. I look forward to seeing others versions pop up all over the web to see how they wear the midi style.

I've previously made up two patterns by Megan Nielsen (Tania Culottes and the Cascade Skirt), both skirts that are just a little bit different and special. I wear them both, but the simpler design of the Brumby skirt means it fits more into my everyday lifestyle. It's a go to option on the weekend in winter (with tights) or summer. I took the pattern testing photos in summer but I've got a heap of wear from the skirt since the cooler weather hit. 

* I received the brumby skirt pattern in exchange for  pattern testing. It was my choice to blog the final garment*

Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat

I love winter coats. I have four that I wear regularly (including my Jackie Coat), but my favourite is a threadbare black hip-length hooded duffle coat with two missing toggles. My mum bought it for me over 8 years ago and it's been a staple ever since. It's some sort of magic coat that goes with every outfit and some how fitted me perfectly across three different dress sizes during this time. I desperately needed a new perfect coat.

Enter the Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat pattern, which I bought from Indie Stitches. View A is an almost perfect replica of my favorite coat except that it needed View B's hood.  I cut size 6, grading out the to 8 from the waist down. It took for freakin' ever to trace and cut out all 27 pieces required. There were a few pieces that I didn't trace because they weren't multi-size or could be folded.

It took some time to gather all the material. I used leftover black wool felting from my Jackie coat, and bought some gorgeous grey speckled wool from the cloth shop for the contrast. I couldn't find any premade toggles I liked so I purchased these from M Retch. The delivery was super quick, but I'd prefer a courier service that drops the product to the local post office if the recipient isn't home rather than having to reorganise a time with the courier for pick up. Searching for the leather was frustrating. I couldn't find any soft textured black leather in my local fabric stores. I hunted for leather handbags in opshops but didn't find anything quite right. In the end my sister gave me some scrap leather used to cover their kitchen chairs with - it was perfect.

I wanted the coat to be quite warm and thick so I interlined the bodice pieces with leftover PJ flanelette (pea pods and wolves). I did this by tracing the whole bodice pieces, without the yoke/bodice seam allowances, basting the main and interlining fabric together and treating them as one.

This Jacket was a labour of love. Every time it seemed close to being done I'd be shocked to see how many more steps there was in the instructions. Thankfully the instructions were really well written. The process of the sewing and attaching the lining can be a little confusing but a quick glance at the sewalong was all that was needed to confirm what you are doing.

My only complaints about the coat are the size of the pockets (not a big deal, but I'd make them smaller next time) and that the hood and hem lining wants to pull down and sit strangely. Because there is excess ease in the lining (to allow for movement) the hem facing and hood facing have the tendency to fall out of place (even after a good press). I fixed this by tacking the facings down. I simply stitched in the ditch of the side seam (hem) and centre seams (hood).

I love the style and fit of the coat. It definitely fills the hole of my old perfect coat. It is on the short side, but I'm short torsoed so it doesn't both me. I find the sleeves slightly too firm given the number of layers I'll be wearing under the coat, but hopefully the interlining will mean less layers. Overall, I'm incredibly happy with how my Cascade Duffle Coat turned out and I've promptly filled the (massive) pockets with tissues and spare gloves.  

Blue Merino Coppelia Cardi

My pink and black Papercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigans have got to be some of the most worn garments in my cupboard. I wear cropped cardigans a lot and their neutral tones are perfect for just about every occasion. Unfortunately my pink merino cardi has a few holes (which I'll sew up) and the cheap black fabric has pilled.

I bought some ribbed navy merino from The Cloth Shop with plans to sew another Coppelia in the hopes that more will mean extending the life of all of them. This fabric is a gorgeous colour, lightweight and stretchy. In fact it may be a little too stretchy, lacking the recovery needed for a tight fitting wrap around cardi. I'm just going to have to be extra careful not to stretch it out.

I once again made a size XS upped bodice/Sm waist. While it is cropped, this pattern still uses up quite a bit of fabric with the long wrap around ties and front bodice ribbing.  

I made the cardi almost completely on my overlocker. I following the instructions with two exceptions: 1) I didn't leave a space in the bodice side seams to pull the wrap ties through as I never use the hole on my pink cardi. 2) I attached the hem wrap ties differently so as to avoid having to use the sewing machine as much as possible. I pinned and sewed the ties wrong sides out after folding the cardi inside the ties as much as possible. I left a small gap at the centre back to pull the cardi right side out and attached this section using the sewing machine. It's a bit difficult to explain, but Sophie has a photo tutorial which shows something very similar (steps 6,7,8).

Nothing more to say, other than that I'm glad to add another Coppelia Cardy to my wardrobe and there's always room for more. I couldn't be more in love with this pattern and absolutely recommend it to others who like cropped cardigans. 

Modified V1247 Skirt

I've made the high waisted mini a line skirt included in V1247 four times before. Two for myself and two for a friend. Throughout these renditions I have followed the instructions exactly, and then added length to the skirt, added length to the back zipper lap, removed pockets, bound all seams and serged all seams.

I love the shape of the pattern and the sweet front pockets, but for this fabric I didnt want to worry about pattern matching across the pockets. Instead, I overlapped the front and back top and bottom pattern pieces on the fabric as if there were only two pattern pieces rather than four. This makes for a much simpler skirt design and construction process. I pattern matched the skirt at the side seams and centre back.

I also added 2 inches to the length of the hem and an inch to the lapped zipper. I sewed up the seams with 1/2" seam allowances for a little extra ease to allow for tights, layering and adding a lining. I used leftover navy poly lining and recut the two main skirt pattern pieces. I sewed up the lining and attached it to the inside of waistband (facing). I hand stitched the lining centre back to the zipper. I machine stitched a narrow hem on the lining, but hand stitched the hem of the skirt.

The fit of the skirt is excellent, but form fitting enough to feel uncomfortable after a big eating weekend. It's a size 12 (with extra S/A), which is the largest size in the AA pattern envelope. I plan to make this pattern up again and again. Maybe not having to buy the larger pattern envelope is enough incentive to have less big eating weekends. Probably not. 

I love the the final skirt. It's a great length for a winter skirt, warm, and the lining helps with how the skirt sits over tights. This skirt will certainly brighten up my outfit amongst the usual black business attire that us Melbournians love so much. Although, as you can see, everything else I'm wearing is black black black. 

Thanks to Jess for taking work break photos.