Floral Bluegingerdoll Betsy

After finishing my first Bluegingerdoll Betsy Skirt I was quick to cut out a second!

Given the recent pattern testing discussion online I'd like to note the following: Firstly, I love pattern testing for all the reasons I listed in this post. I sure as hell don't get paid to pattern test (wouldn't that be the dream!), other than with free access to the pattern being tested and the fun and valuable communication with the designer. When I pattern test I declare it as such and everything I say about the pattern is an honest representation of my opinion of the patterns. Finally, I made this skirt outside of the testing period, did not discuss it with Abby (owner/creator of Bluegingerdoll), and I have another one in the works. If anyone is wondering whether I really like this pattern then let that speak for itself! 

The details: This is version C of the Bluegingerdoll Betsy Skirt, a highwaisted pin up style with a front V and a pleated accordion back vent. I  cut a size 12 out of the absolutley stunning cotton sateen I won in a fabric giveaway put on by the lovely Neeno of Sew Me Love. Neeno intended the fabric to become a dress, but with such a loud print I really liked the idea of a fitted skirt to be paired with a neutral top. 

The only change I ended up making to the skirt was to take in the side seams a further 1/4". I think the size 12 is a perfect fit in a non stretchy fabric but this has some real stretch to it and after wearing it all day I wonder whether I may need to take it in a little further. I hand stitched the hem and the waistband facing.

 

My favorite part of this skirt, other than the amazing fabric,  is the gorgeous pleated accordion back vent. During constructing I was a little confused by the pattern/instructions and unsure how the fabric would become the vent. I had faith, followed the instructions and it turned out perfectly. It reminded me of inserting a zipper fly back to front - I don't know how it works, it just does!

Not much more to say about this beauty, other than I love it! Reminder: My giveaway for any Bluegingerdoll PDF listed by Indie Stitches closes on Monday. If you're keen to be in the running get over to my previous post and follow the giveaway instructions.

Pattern Testing: Prefontaine Shorts For Women

If you've got kids and you sew, I'm sure you've heard of the Prefontaine Shorts pattern by Made with Moxie. Well now there's a women's version, but slightly more pimped out! I put my hand up to pattern test for Jill some time ago and made three versions. The Womens Prefontaine shorts have just been pre released as the bonus pattern when you spend $28+ for the latest Perfect Pattern Parcel.

The Prefontaine shorts are an elastic waist design with front pockets, optional back patch or welt pockets, curved hems and bound seams. The design is incredibly versatile and also has a exposed elastic variation. With the right fabric they can be your summer shorts, running shorts or (like in my case) PJ shorts. Apologies in advance for yet another post where I'm wearing PJ's. I made no effort to style the shorts for these photos- they are PJS after all!

                 

The first pair I made were from an earlier version of pattern testing so they exclude any design features. I made them from a blue and green pea flannel with a green pre-bought bias binding. The fit is great and they are fantastically comfy PJ shorts.

For my second pair I made the shorty short variation (hence the tights) with front pockets. I made them out of the left over fabric from Tim's Woodland animal PJ pants. I love these PJ shorts so much! In the instructions Jill includes great tip on making your own bias out of an old tshirt or knit fabric scraps. Because it's knit fabric you don't have to fussy cut on the bias. For this pair of shorts I used left over grey fabric from my Eva Dress to make the (non)bias strips.



This length shorts is perfect for summer PJ's, running shorts or even beach cover up shorts.

Finally I made a third pair of shorts with both front pockets and a welt back pocket. For this pair I chose the left over fabric from my hacked Floral Emery dress skirt and peppermint wrap dress. I used an old singlet top I never wear to make (non) bias for the trimming. I made two button holes in the waistband before sewing down the waistband and used left over bias to make a waist drawstring. I really like this addition. I tried and make this pair of shorts more casual day wear. Something comfy and casual for summer weekends. I don't really own shorts like this, I wear skirts or more fitted tailored shorts. To be honest, I don't think I can pull this look off. But, that may just be because I'm in the middle of autumn here and my legs are super pale.

I absolutely recommended this pattern. They're an achievable make for beginners but with enough versatility to excite a more experienced sewer. If you think you might want to make exercise shorts, summer shorts, PJ shorts or anything in between the Prefontaine Shorts are a winner.

Sew Indie Interview: Bluegingerdoll Patterns

Over the past year of sewing with Indie Patterns I've been blown away, not only by the patterns but also, by the designers incredible generosity and approachability. I've been keen to learn more about these companies and the designers who created them. I assume others are interested too so I thought I'd invite a few of these wonderful and creative people to tell us a bit about themselves. I'm particularly interested to hear more from pattern designers whose companies are new initiatives or are locals (Australian). I'll post the interviews as they come along and hope to include the occasional giveaway where possible. *See end of post for a fabulous giveaway on behalf of Indie Stitches*

First up is the wonderful Abby, owner and creator of Bluegingerdoll Patterns who is based in my home town Melbourne, Australia. The first Bluegingerdoll pattern was released a little over a year ago, and already 6 further patterns have been released. Abby creates vintage inspired patterns which flatter the curvy figure. Her patterns have been well received throughout the sewing community. 

Abby, could you tell us a little bit about yourself and the role of sewing in your life?

Sewing is an all consuming force in my life at the moment, although its more in respect to creating sewing patterns for others to sew. I haven't actually sewn much for myself for quite sometime.

When/how did you decide to take the plunge in beginning an indie sewing pattern company?

Early 2012 i decided to take the plunge into making Bluegingerdoll a reality. I have previously studied Fashion design & Technology and I had been creating patterns for myself and others before I started down this road. The transition into creating patterns for Bluegingerdoll was easier in my mind than it turned out to be. There was a lot of trial and error beforehand with designs as well as working out how to run Bluegingerdoll smoothly on the side whilst still working a 9-5 day job.  

Your very first pattern, the gorgeous Billie Jean Dress, recently turned 1. You have since released 6 (!) more patterns. This is incredibly prolific. Whats the secret to your success?

This may sound cliche but there aren't any secrets (sorry) just a lot of hard work. I am learning a lot as I go, and Bluegingerdoll continues to evolve with each new pattern release. I guess, maybe i'm getting better at handling it all. I absolutely love what I do and the hard work that comes along with Bluegingerdoll  is something I get a real kick out of too. I also have a very supportive partner who helps me out big time, especially with the business side of things.

Could you tell me a little about your design process? How does an idea grow to be a physical pattern? (Are you a computer based designer or a pen and paper kinda gal? Flat pattern or draper?)

I'm a mixture of all of the above but to be honest more old school. I prefer to be more hands on when designing. It also depends on the design itself finding the right method to work with to get the idea out of my head and into a working form, so sometimes I do move into different methods of pattern making.

Source: http://bluegingerdoll.com/

What is the inspiration behind your patterns? How were Ava and Betsy dreamed up?

I've always been a fan of a fitting and flattering pencil skirt. I have a little too many in my wardrobe. I love that there a simple staple but so 'Va va voom' in a subtle way. Betsy in particular I wanted to design, so it could be a pencil skirt that could be worn in varying styles as well as be flattering on a curvy figure. In my mind, I  wanted to create an outfit such as Betsy & Ava  that would try to capture the femininity and glamour that was so prevalent in the 50s era, and also pieces that aren't just for special occasion wear, for everyday. 

What have you learnt over your 1+ in business with Bluegingerdoll Patterns and what advice would you give home sewers and wannabe pattern designers?

I've  learnt so, so much since starting Bluegingerdoll and not only about running a small business, but myself as well. Patience (still working on that one), your only one person, you do need to sleep and take care of yourself properly. Copious amounts of coffee and junk food do not make for a 100% functioning person. As well as accepting that the hard work is just part of it all. My advice for others is to learn as much as you can, hone those sewing/pattern drafting skills or whatever the skill may be before moving onto the next. Read, read and read and then read some more, sewing books, blogs absorb yourself in it all. Just never stop learning. Also, get involved in the awesome sewing community, they're a great supportive bunch. 

Any hints about what's to come from Bluegingerdoll Patterns?

At the moment I have a few new designs in the works and am working towards broadening the horizons of Bluegingerdoll in the coming months.

Thanks so much to Abby for sharing her story with us. I cannot wait to see what "broadening the horizons of Bluegingerdoll " entails - what a teaser!

Giveaway... (Closed)

To celebrate the release of Bluegingerdoll's new Patterns and also the first of hopefully many interviews with Indie Sewing Pattern designers, I'm holding a giveaway for any one Bluegingerdoll PDF pattern available on the Indie Stitches Website. This giveaway is open internationally and a winner will be randomly drawn on Monday the 9th of June. To enter: Visit Indie Stiches, choose which Bluegingerdoll PDF pattern you'd like to win, and leave me a comment letting me know. If you like, also tell me what question you'd ask your favourite Indie Pattern Designer. Please also provide a contact email. Goodluck! 

Pattern Testing & Blog Tour: Betsy & Ava

I'm thrilled to be a part of Bluegingerdoll blog tour for Abby's new patterns Betsy and Ava. When Abby contacted me to pattern test I was beside myself and these patterns did not disappoint! I've been itching to share them and the hardest part of the whole thing was twiddling my thumbs waiting for the patterns to be released. To ease my pain I sewed up this Belcarra Blouse to match my outfit. Get ready for a lot of photos! Also, a big thanks to Tim for taking these shots. Betsy and Ava brought the diva out in me...

First up is Betsy, a classic pencil skirt with some fantastic design features which set the pattern apart. For pattern testing I made Version A which has a back vent and buttoned waistband tabs. Version B is a gorgeous wrap variation which I have plans to make very soon. Version C is a little bit different, it's a high waisted pin up style with a beautiful pleated kick pleat.
  

For Betsy I cut a size 14 which is one size larger than I'd normally go for. In the past I've found BGD patterns very fitted and I like a little more ease (so I thought). I made Betsy and Ava up in a lovely medium weight wool blend with a slight amount of stretch from Darn Cheap Fabrics. From a distance the fabric looks gunmetal grey/blue but up close it actually a tiny black and teal houndstooth. I choose mustard as a contrasting fabric for Ava's lining and also for the buttons on Betsy.

Other than minor teething problems with the original instructions, Betsy sewed up like a dream. The pattern itself was spot on. I'd recommend the pattern for a confident beginner. I made no changes to the pattern other than to cut approx. 1"of the hem AND to take the side seams in approx. 1/2"on both sides! I then trimmed down my pattern pieces to a size 12 so I wouldn't make the same mistake next time. With the taken in sides the fit is perfect.

Because I took my hem up a further 1" I find that my back vent is a little playful. It's shorter than intended and doesn't want to sit flat. For those intending on shortening their skirt I'd recommended you alter the pattern to increase the length of the back vent a little.

Ok, on to Ava. Ava is a fully lined drapey jacket will a shawl collar, turned up sleeves and a generous amount of ease. She's a glamorous thing!

I went with my chest measurement and cut a size 8 for Ava. The jacket is a simple design and totally beginner friendly. However the collar attachment can be a little confusing and there is a lot of hand stitching to be done! Seriously, Ava really whipped my hand stitching skills into shape. It would be lots of fun to use contrasting fabric for the collar and cuffs. I used the mustard fabric for my under collar which is a bit of a treat. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of it.

The fit is intended to be generous and boxy. A light weight drapey fabric is ideal so as not to be drowned by a stiff boxy jacket. I think my Ava turned out  great and I don't feel overwhelmed by it. Together, Betsy and Ava have come together to be a lovely suit. When I first started blogging I talked about making a conference cambie (never happened!!). I can totally see myself wearing my Betsy and Ava suit to a conference or other important meetings. I'd like to make another more casual Ava in a fun lightweight fabric to pair with jeans. Betsy will be on high rotation in my work wardrobe.

Ok, that was a long one! I hope you're following along the blog tour and falling in love with Betsy and Ava as much I have. Check back in tomorrow as I'll be sharing a bit of a treat (read: giveaway!!).

MMM'14 Week 5: The Finale.

Today brings us to the end of Me Made May 2014! I've had a great time wearing me made all month. It was surprisingly easy. The hardest part was taking daily selfies, especially when I had a cold. I loved checking out participators MMM outfits on Instagram each day; their encouragement kept me going with my own pledge. This week I wore:

Day 26: Sick day. At home, wearing my Merino faux wrap Coppelia Jumper with RTW PJ Pants and long sleeve.

Day 27:  Back at work wearing my modified Colette Pattern Hawthorn Blouse with Pink wrap Coppelia Cardy and RTW work pants.

Day 28: Wearing my faux wrap Coppelia Jumper again with RTW shirt and skirt.

Day 29: Papercut Patterns Ensis Tee with opshop skirt. This was my 6th day of wearing Papercut Patterns in a row!!

Day 30:  At home on a dreary day so I cracked out my bright blue Miette Wrap skirt and red and white Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee.  Evening costume change into my Happy Emery Day Dress.

Day 31:  An easy outfit on the final day. My trusty and well worn Denim Moss skirt, striped scoop neck tee , with RTW kitty jumper.

Reflections on goal 1 wear 1 me-made garment everyday: Goal achieved. I wore a heap of my me-mades - 31 in total. A couple of these garments got repeated. The clear winner was my Denim Moss Skirt which I wore 7 times!! While I wore many repeats there were some items in my me-made wardrobe that I didn't wear at all: 

-  6 dresses: of these four weren't event/weather appropriate. I could have easily worn my two Saltspring dresses with tights but I've come to realise they don't suit me at all. Time for the opshop. 

- 1 Pair of shorts: didn't wear for obvious reasons. 

- 3 skirts: I didn't wear either my first Brown Moss Skirt or Hollyburn skirt (both unblogged) as the fabric choices for each were just ugly. These will be going in the opshop bag too. 

- 5 blouses: These weren't worn simply due to weather appropriateness. 

Reflections on Goal 2 sew at least two layering knit/stretch garments: Goal achieved. Goal overachieved!! This month I sewed 8 knit garments: 

- 1 dress: Eva Dress

- 3 tee's: Mandy Boat Tee, Ensis long sleeve Tee, and unblogged SBCC Tonic Tee

- 3 jumpers/cardy's: Coppelia Cardy and Jumper, Ensis Tee Jumper

- 1skirt: Double Drape Skirt

- 1 pair of leggings: Unblogged Espresso Leggings.

Since buying my overlocker my attitude towards sewing knits has totally changed. It's so much quicker to whip up leggings, t-shirts, jumpers than it is to sew a dress with all its finishings and closures. I'm on a bit of a knit honeymoon at the moment but I'm sure I'll come back to woven fabrics very soon. 

Goodbye Me-Made-May, until next year!

MMM'14 Week 1; MMM'14 Week 2; MMM'14 Week 3; MMM'14 Week 4

(More!) Papercut Paterns: Ensis Tee

I just can't get enough Papercut Patterns! You're probably bored silly of my Ensis Tee's and Coppelia Cardigans. I decided I'd post about the Ensis Tee again as this version turned out so dramatically different to my first.

This time I made variation 2 (curved hem) but added the sleeve cuffs from variation one. Again I cut a straight XS with no changes to the pattern and once again it sewed up like a dream on my overlocker. The fabric I used was the left over pink lightweight merino from my wrap coppelia cardy and matching blue merino. This fabric is almost as stretchy (imo) as what I used for my first Ensis Tee. However the fabric I used for the first is thinly ribbed, heavier weight and is much slouchier (technical term), it kind of wants to stretch just due to its own weight. While the pink and blue lightweight merino has great recovery.

It might be difficult to see but my first Ensis Tee fits like a jumper should, with plenty of room for layers underneath. While my new Ensis fits much more like a long sleeve Tee. Something I would wear as a layer rather than an outer garment.

I love this version just as much as my first, but think it's amazing that a single pattern with just a change in fabric can create two garments which form very different parts of my wardrobe.

Thanks very much to Jess for taking some quick photos during a work break.

 

Papercut Patterns: Coppelia Cardy Version 2

After making up my beloved my Pink ballet wrap Pappercut Patterns Coppelia Cardigan I jumped straight into making the newly released longer faux wrap version.

 

 

I had ample wrap overlap in my first version so decided to grade my pattern pieces back down to a straight XS. I used the left over grey merino from my Ensis Tee. Once again  I sewed the pattern with only (almost) my overlocker and once again it came together like a dream. It was a super quick make, perhaps even quicker than the wrap version as the bottom cuff goes on a bit simpler. Just one thing slowed me down.

 

After sewing up the side seams and trying on I noticed the front wrap pieces were WAY too roomy. They sort of draped down across my chest rather than fitting around my chest. I'd already overlocked the edges - ugh! I sort seam ripped sort of cut open the seams from the bottom to just above where the wrap pieces finish (about waist height). I pulled the front bodice pieces tight, only at the short wrap sides, not at the long side, and basted the sides to see if the fit was better. As you can see in the above photo I graded the shorter wrap side out by about 1/2" at the bottom to about 1.5" at the top of the wrap. This is after already loosing some width from overlocking and seam ripping. After deciding I was happy on the fit I cut off the excess fabric and overlocked the side seams once more.

 

I like the resulting fit, but it is still quite slouchy. I don't mind in this instance as my merino is quite drapey and slouchy itself. Next time I will probably cut the pattern pieces down before cutting into my fabric. I definitely recommend basting the side seams (at least from the waist down) and checking the front bodice fit before stitching/overlocking.

 

I'm super happy with this jumper and I know I'll get a heap of wear out of it. Today is my third day in a row wearing coppelia cardy's. I especially love how not-homemade the wrap collar, hem and cuffs look and feel. Also, I'm going to state the obvious and say that sewing with Merino has been seriously delightful. And wearing it even better! I can see myself regularly buying up a few different shades when ever I need/want a new jumper or cardy.

 

Thanks to Tim for quickly taking these photo before work. Please excuse my translucent face caused by morning light.

MMM'14 Week 4

Week 4 is done, so just one more week to go before the end Me Made May 2014. I've definitely become less inventive with my outfits and also less concerned with my photos. I've had a bad cold this so lots of headless shots too.

Day 19: Blue and white gingham Sorbetto (one of my first ever makes) with my black textured Teach me Fashion Drape Skirt.

 

Day 20: Sorbertto with sleeves and modified curved hem. RTW Skirt

 

Day 21: Brand spanking new Papercut Patterns Coppelia Cardy. RTW dress. This outfit made me super happy.

 

 

Day 22: Pink Floral Peppermint Mag Wrap Dress with RTW layers.

 

 

 Day 23: At home with the beginning of a bad head cold. Unblogged Grey Espresso Leggings with RTW long sleeve and Cardy.

 

Day 24: wearing my new Papercut Patterns Ensis Tee with the again repeated Denim Moss skirt.

'

 

Day 25: This is a total outfit repeat! Denim Moss skirt and Pink Floral Rigel Bomber.

 

Reflections: What a week of Papercut Patterns its been! I wore four me-made knit garments, three of which I've made this month. I think we can say I totally killed my second Me Made May goal of sewing two knit/stretch layering garments. Also, long live my Denim Moss skirt.

Papercut Patterns: Ensis Tee

After declaring my love for Papercut Patterns in general, and the Coppelia Cardy specifically, I jumped straight in to the Ensis Tee.

I cut a straight size XS in variation 1. I used a grey Merino for the bottom half and a bright purple for the top half. Both picked up in the Fabric Store sale. The purple has a slightly softer drape and is a bit stretchier.

I followed the instructions to a tee (except for using my overlocker instead of the sewing machine) and they were perfection. This is a ridiculously simple make, with so much potential for hacking, style and colour variations.

Really not much more to say about this one. I love how it turned out and I can see myself making a hole heaps of these jumpers. I'm really glad I made the straight XS. The S would have just been to roomy. My only complaint is that the purple stretches out of shape really quickly so I probably should have reinforced the shoulders with some clear elastic of stabilzer. I have a heap of the purple left so I'll be sure to remember this when I next use it.  I cut another Ensis and Coppelia this arvo in the other variations and I cant wait to get a chance to sew them up.