For my first pair I ended up improvising. I sewed the knicker front and back together at the crotch and then attached the gusset separately. I found the waist band elastic WAY too loose but couldn't be stuffed with all that unpicking so cut and took in the sides for a quick fix. A good tip to get the right elastic measurement is to measure a much loved pair of RTW underwear. I did this for the leg openings and they turned out perfect first time.
After some online support from the designer I got my head around the gusset/crotch seam insertion. I also cut up an old pair of knickers to take a closer look and have a visual guide in front of me. Maybe it's just me, but the images in the instructions totally confused me and led me in the wrong direction.
- Sew the the knicker together wrong side facing at the crotch seam with the gusset right side facing down on the bum piece.
- Once this seam is sewn and you lay your knicker out you should have an inner seam with the gusset right side facing the wrong side on the knicker backside.
- Flip the gusset toward the front of the knickers. It should now be right side facing up. Stitch the gusset down about 1cm from the seam. The sides of the gusset are later sewn into the elastic leg openings
I started making a second pair (not pictured) and got the gusset perfect but had trouble with the elastic insertion (my error!). Finally, my third pair came together perfectly! After noticing how big my first pair were around the waist I cut the waist to a 12 but left the crotch length and covering a 14. This pair are super comfy with good coverage and crotch length. Now that I've got the sizing and gusset insertion just right I can see myself making many more pairs! I've already cut two more pairs that are just waiting on a store run for some more 1/4"elastic.
I made my second pair out of cotton lawn left over from the Sorbettos I made my sister and I. I love to wear matching underwear and bras. Well, now I can wear matching knickers and tops! I'm so glad I persisted with these knickers. I can see many many more in my future. Time to break out the trimmings and ribbons! This just put a whole knew meaning to the upcoming Me-Made-May! Ok, that's enough knicker talk.