Tessuti Lois Dress: Very Wearable Muslin

Tessuti released some great patterns in 2017! I was most facinated by the Lois Dress. Lois has a low cut front, is midi length and skims over the stomach and hips. All beautiful features, but ones I would normally avoid for myself. This is a dress I would walk straight past when shopping thinking it wouldn't suit my shape. It turns out I'm more adventourous when sewing my clothes compared to buying, and I'm really glad about that! 

For my first attempt I used a cotton fabric, white with black squares, from my stash. I cut a size 10 with size 8 shoulders. I followed the intructions with some very minor deviations: I stay-stiched rather than using tear away vilene around the neckline and waist, and I cut and sewed the darts in one piece (as ususal) rather than as the pattern / instructions detail. I dont think either vilene or the alternative darts are nessecary.  

                

The dress comes together reasonably quickly and the instructions a great! Lots of detailed photos to take you through each step. The most fiddlly aspect was joing the top to the bodice at the centre front. It's tricky (but doable) to get a nice point at the neckline, and worth taking the time to get it right. I love the 3-step process for attaching the bias binding, which creates a really firm and neat neckline. I was worried about the low-cut neckline, but the plunge stops just above my bra bridge. Perfect!

As usual for Tessuti patterns, the number of pages to be printed is execcesive!  The pattern could definitely be repositioned to spread across fewer pages. It would also be useful if a legend was included stating which pages need to be printed for what pattern pieces. This way I could have avoided printing pages for the vilene shields and the bias binidng piece - niether of which are nessecary, IMO. This would also be useful if you need to reprint a pattern piece gone missing, or go up a size only in the bodice pieces, for example. 

Overall, I really like this pattern and am pleasantly suprised at just how flattering it is on me, and on women of varying shapes and sizes across the sewing blogger community. This dress was intended to be a muslin, but I've already worn it a heap! I've also sewn another version in a darker viscose. Looking forward to seeing what patterns Tessuti release in 2018.

Megan Nielsen Wool Flint Pants

Happy New Year! I hope you have had the chance to take a break over the festive season and make plans for a wonderful year ahead. I didnt blog much throughout 2017, but I actually sewed quite a bit. So, I thought I'd take the chance to post a few makes before getting into my 2018 sewing.  

 

First up, my navy wool Megain Nielsen Flint pants. I actually made these before my linen version but found it difficult to get good photos. Given it's now summer, I'm going with my early morning, pre-work photos, bad lighting and all. The overexposed images really pick up every crease and pull line and they don't look particluarly flattering. But, I actually love these pants and feel great in them; bad phtotos be damned! 

Fabric is a midweight boiled wool from The Cloth Shop. Construction: Similiar to my other versions (1, 2), with following modifications: flat front, wide hem facing, double button closure. Given these are winter pants I intened them to be a little longer than the cropped length, but I forgot to add length before cutting the fabric. An obvious fix was to add a wide hem facing, and I really like the added weight and swing of the hem. 

Looking forward to wearing these again next winter. In the mean time, I might need another linen pair.

Party Gabby Dress

Hello again so soon! It was my little sister's 21st birthday this week and I wanted a new party dress for the occasion. A quick and easy silk Tessuti Gabby Dress did the trick!

I initially cut a straight size small (short length) out of some lovely patterned crepe silk bought from a fabric sale at Phillips Shirts. Pre-hemming I tried on the dress and found it a little too short. I rummaged through my fabric stash for some inspiration on how to add length. I wasn't convinced by a straight contrast hem panel (View A) - a ruffle is much more party-like! 

The ruffle is made from a spotty black textured silk from The Cloth Shop. I was saving it for a summer blouse - hopefully, I still have enough for that project. The gathered ruffle is 2.5" after attaching and hemming. During sewing I worried the ruffle might look like an afterthought and a bit too 'crafty',  but I think it actually makes the dress. 

I've made the Gabby twice before (1, 2). I've worn my rayon floral version to death and quite a few times since holes started appearing at the seams. I'm glad to have a new version I know will get heaps of wear winter through summer.  The shape may not be the most flattering on me, but it's so comfortable! And, I think the Gabby looks great cinched in with a belt too.

Megan Nielsen Flint Cropped Linen Pants

Hi there, long time no blog. This very intermittent blogging is beginning to become a pattern! I've sewn a few bits and pieces this winter. I'm definitely not sewing at the rate I was in 2014. These days, I tend to sew less, sew more slowly and only spend my time on garments that are going to be well loved and worn. This approach is more sustainable financially and environmentally, but also emotionally.

In May I blogged about my Megan Nielsen Flint shorts, which I loved! I've since made two pairs of Flint pants. The first is a beautiful heavy weight blue boiled wool. I haven't been able to get photos of these yet. I find it difficult to match up sunlight hours, good weather, and motivation for outdoor photos during winter. The second pair I made is a lovely navy linen cropped summer pant.

I'm more of a shorts and skirts girl in summer, but our travels to South East Asia have meant having a couple of pairs of light weight pants in the wardrobe for more conservative tourism. I have some easy-wear harem pants for this purpose. I really hate them and I'm thrilled to have replaced them with my new linen flint pants! I made these the weekend before heading off on a holiday to Malaysia with Tim. These photos are taken from our hotel balcony in Langkawi.

The fabric is a medium weight linen from The Cloth Shop. I made these pants in exactly the same way as my modified flat front Flint Shorts with two changes. 1) I used the button closure option instead of the bow. I like the look of two small buttons in line on the edge of the closure. This also feels more secure and the fabric lays flatter at the corner.  2) I like the longer cropped length but also wanted a deep heavy hem. So,  I added a 2" hem facing instead of hemming as instructed. 

These pants worked well for a day of touristing as well as for fancier dinners out. They were very cool and comfy to wear in the heat. I hope that they will be a good summer work wardrobe option as well.

Megan Nielsen Flint Shorts

I fell quickly in love with the shorts version of the most recent Megan Nielsen Pattern, "Flint".  The high waist with side tie closure were perfect! But I had my doubts about the open front pleats. I was worried that the pleats would always want to sit open, with my large-ish thighs, and perhaps be unflattering. Thankfully, Meg put together an easy to follow tutorial on removing the pleats to create a flat front. Arent we spoilt!

I made Version 4 in a straight size medium. This fabric is a lovely light cotton denim bought from The Cloth Shop. I've used it previously for a Ilsley skirt and Miette skirt. It's a super versatile fabric and very lightweight and comfortable for summer. It's Autumn here and much too chilly for shorts, but I actually really like them over tights. Bare leg modeling will have to wait for an upcoming trip to Malaysia. 

I followed the instruction booklet exactly with the exception of the front flat and reducing the hem by 1/2". I also back tacked at the bottom and top edges of the pocket opening to strengthen and take some load of the main seams. The instruction diagrams and steps were clear. Really, sewing this pattern is a cinch and so quick. Very surprising for a shorts/pants pattern.

I'm reasonably happy with the fit. There a couple of minor issues. The internal waist button is not in the right spot (you can see the pulling), but thats an easy fix. There is a small amount of excess fabric at the back waistline that could be pinched out and then added to the crotch. There are also a couple of pull lines around the front waist/pockets but this is really an issue of excess winter layers (and winter weight).

I now really want to try out the pants, perhaps in a heavy linen or lightweight wool. There are some beautiful versions in the blogosphere. I especially these "magic pants" by Helen (FunkBunny).

Peppermint Patterns Peplum Tops

In 2014 I set myself a goal to review 12 free patterns over the year. I still have a penchant for sewing on the cheap by using free patterns, refashioning and using scrap fabrics. There are some excellent free patterns available online. In particular, I love the selection on Peppermint Mag, including the Peplum Top Pattern. 

I've sewn two of these tops. The pattern is easy to follow with no darts of closures. Smoothing the bias binding flat is a little tricky. Especially at the back v neckline. 

This is a  great pattern to use up fabric remnants. The peplum flounce uses quite a bit of fabric, but I found that I didn't need it to be as full as the patterns asks for. The flounce on the black version is about 1/3 short. The floral version is a cotton silk remnant I had left over from this dress. The black spotty silk version i refashioned from this skirt. I found the skirt frumpy. The fabric was too good to be wasted on something I rarely wore.

I love the boxy cropped style of the top and the deep V back neckline. The top is incredibly comfy and goes well with my high waisted skirts and jeans. It's tricky to see, but in the photo below I'm wearing the top over a long-sleeved tee. Yay, for versatile clothes! This is a fantastic free offering and I absolutely recommend it.

I don't have many photos wearing these tops- strange, given I wear them all the time! These two photos are from this weekend. Tim and I stayed in the city to celebrate our wedding anniversary. 

Sparkly 2015 Frocktails Dress

In August 2015 I attended the famed Melbourne Frocktails event organized by Kat. It was about that time that I fell off the sewing/blogging wagon and I never got around to blogging my dress. So here goes. My frocktails dress was definitely not a priority the months, weeks, or even days leading up to the event. I was, however, very excited about catching up with all the lovely sewers attending.

I considered all of my patterns carefully and sorted through fabrics for inspiration.In the end, I decided to make a quick and nasty Tessuti Gabby dress and hide behind the sparkle! I made a size small, as my medium version is on the big side. I sewed a lining and a sequin outer and joined them at the neckline. The lining is a terrible black poly satin that felt awfully hot to wear, even on a cold winter's night. The outer was a black mini sequin. Both fabrics were from GJ's discount fabrics. I inserted a back slit neckline closure and hemmed the outer fabric with black bias tape.

This dress was very fun to wear on the night. But it is hot and heavy to wear. I haven't worn the dress since. But I'll keep it in the wardrobe - you never know when a black mini sparkly number will be called for.

Tessuti New York Cape

Hello again my blogging friends! It's been almost 12 months since my last blog post. As the old saying goes, "how time flies when you're... finishing a PhD". I've sewn a few bits and pieces in the past year, but I finally feel motivated to blog again. This renewed energy is partly inspired by a good friend Jess who has just launched a fantastic blog spotlighting women who cook, create and curate food for a living. I definitely reccomend a look - especially if you're a local (Melbourne, Aus).

Ok, onto my lovely Tessuti New York cape. I bought this pattern and cut out my fabric close to three years ago. It then sat unsewn until I picked it up earlier this month. I was intrigued but not absolutely in love with my fabric choice - hence the delay. But I'm really happy with how it's turned out.

The pattern instructions were detailed and the pattern surprisingly simple to put together. The only change I made was to cut an 1" from the bottom of the cape. Given the lack of shaping, I felt a slightly shorter cape was best for my height and proportions. The pattern was a pleasure to sew and I'd definitely make another in grey/black shades.

To brighten up the insides I used a navy floral tana lawn bought from Spotlight to bind the seams. External edges were bound with a luscious wool binding from Tessuti. This stuff is pricey but worth it. I don't think any other binding would work as well for this pattern. I machined sewed on the wool binding. Other bloggers (1, 2)have recommended hand sewing. I'm sure this would have prevented the slight tension puckering I'm getting in the front of the cape. But it's not bothering me enough to fix it. Another good steam might resolve the issue.

My cape currently lacks buttons. After traipsing around the city and trying to convince myself that several different buttons look "fine", I've decided to just go without. At least temporarily, until the perfect button finds me! In the meantime, I've tacked the undersleeve together. I'm not sure I'd wear the cape closed very often anyway as it's a fairly lightweight coat.

Thanks for reading. It's great to be back! 

Not My Wedding Cape: Peppermint Winter Wool Cape

A couple of weeks ago Tim and I got hitched and it was perfect!

I had considered making my wedding dress and even bought a few patterns but ended up falling hard over a dress I tried on when inspiration shopping. I absolutely loved my dress. And I'm really glad I bought a dress as Tim and I had a short engagement and trying to decide on a style, find the right fabrics, muslin and sew a dress in that time frame would have been an added stress that I didn't need.

But, I wasn't too sure what to wear over my dress in case of cool weather. I had a second-hand jacket that would do the job, but I couldn't get the idea of a blue cropped cape out of my mind. I searched the internet for inspiration and loved the idea of somehting like this, but wasn't totally convinced it would go with my dress. I decided to just give it a go and cut out the free Peppermint Sewing School Winter Wool Cape pattern. I cut a size small in some beautiful blue wool blend and blush silk fabric from Tessuti.

I made the pattern up as instructed with the following changes: I understitched the silk edge to wool seam allowances to help it stay inside the cape a little better. If I made the cape again I'd cut the silk a couple of mm's smaller than the main fabric to help with this also. I attached the neckband the opposite way around to the instructions so that the hand sewing would be on the inside. I used a hook and eye rather than a button and loops.

I love that this pattern has shoulder seams and arm space, rather than being just a semi-circle. You can still use your arms! I love the cropped length and the style. But, it wasn't right for the wedding. My dress was fitted up top and having a boxy cape took away from the shape of my dress. Also, the blue and white reminded me of an old fashioned nurse's outfit. My sister took some photos of the cape over my wedding dress for me a few days before the wedding. Below is the ridiculous photo that sealed the deal: the cape was not quite right.

But it is a lovely little cape. So that leads to question, where and how do you wear a little bright blue cape?

A Belated Tessuti Sydney Jacket

A post that's been half written since last winter:
I love the Tessuti aesthetic. The designs are modern, minimalist and often offer comfort through oversized, boxy or flowy styles. There are a few bloggers on my feed who make just about all Tessuti patterns and they look stunning wearing them. I'm not so sure about these boxy, flowy, often lengthened garments on my body. I generally admire these patterns on others and avoid them for myself.

This was true of the Sydney Jacket initially. And then these amazing coats kept popping up all over my blog feed. I went to a Frocktails fabric shopping get-together last year and I saw four different ladies in four equally gorgeous coats in one morning! About an hour in to the day I was convinced I'd give it a go.

I bought my fabric (wool/poly blend) from The Fabric Store and cut a size S. Due to fabric wanting to fray a little I excluded the exposed pockets and cut the front piece along the selvage. I didn't both about pattern matching because the pattern is a little origami like at first and I didn't want to stuff around figuring out the perfect match only to get it wrong. Especially as I wasn't convinced I'd even wear the coat.

The sewing was pretty darn quick. I found it helpful to mark in chalk the overlapped seam lines on the fabric when lining up pattern pieces. I really like the look of the exposed seam lines but they can get a little messy if you're not careful. On the edges of the coat I sew a line of stitching parallel to the raw edges and then purposeless frayed the edges a little.

These photos are from last winter, wearing the coat over Jeans. But since, I've been more likley to wear it over another drapey long sleeve cardigan with a fitted skirt. I wouldn't say I feel totally myself in it and I think I look a bit like I'm just wearing a blanket, but it's very warm and comfortable. I've been considering making another version but can't decide between a colourful tartan I've been dyeing to cut into and a basic black or tan.  I wonder also if a slightly thicker fabric would give it more structure and remove some of the blanket look?